The main slabby wall to the right of the Central Gully. Probably the most climbed section of rock on the Sebastopol bluffs.
Park at the second lay by after the corner when driving towards the village from Unwin Lodge (about 1km).
There is a DoC sign and a track that leads to Black Birch stream. On the other side of the usually dry creek bed a track heads towards the prominent slabby looking areas on the right. If you're not on a well-trodden path, you're going wrong. There is a scrubby scree further right. The right arete is the famous "Red Arete".
On descent, the rap stations on the Red Wall are a long way apart, requiring 2 x 50+m ropes, however there are also several mid stations around 30m apart. Alternatively walk off the top or rap down the Red arete if there is no one on it as there are plenty of abseil stations.
Let's Go Bushwalking, Shark Attack and Red Arete have double rings for abseil descents mid-pitch on the first pitches, these are better left alone until you're descending. They are not pitch anchors.
Your descent may be determined by what routes are busy.
Normally people climb Red Arete and descend down Mako or Shark Attack. Mako is better if your ropes are even slightly less than 60m as the Shark Attack station is a stretch on half a 60m rope. Life is better on descent with double ropes.
WARNING: In case your rope is a bit short tie knots in the end.
NOTE: The number of bolts may be different to that listed - feel free to update this.

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E | Ernie | 18 | 35m |
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On the upper left of the Red Slabs. Accessed by climbing the first pitch of Shark Attack and the traverse leftwards past the start of Mako.
Starts L of a vertical strip of vegetation.
Brent Shears
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B | Bert | 17 | 35m |
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On the upper left of the Red Slabs. Accessed by climbing the first pitch of Shark Attack and the traverse up and leftwards.
Shares the 1st bolt with Ernie and goes R of the vertical strip of vegetation.
Brent Shears
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MP | Miss Piggy | 17 | 45m |
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On the upper left of the Red Slabs. Accessed by climbing the first 2 pitches of Shark Attack or Lets Go Bushwalking and link pitch to the Mako anchor and the traverse leftwards. Start at 2B anchor near a dead tree. Climb veering R-wards to a crack then through an overhang. Once above the roof, move back L-wards past a bolt.
Note it is further R than on the topo.
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M | Mako | 16 ,15 | 63m |
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Starts 5m left and a slightly higher than the 2nd pitch belay station of
Shark Attack. May be wrongly named in some guides as Kermit.
C.Burtenshaw and AATC students
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LGB | Let’s Go Bushwalking | 14 ,15 | 35m |
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Take the left-most line of bolts on the lower Red Slabs..Climb directly up the wall over a couple of overlaps on great rock move left to easier ground after an double ring abseil anchor to a belay stance 5m higher
Paul Aubrey
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SF | Something fishy | 13 | 20m |
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A link pitch to get from Let's go Bushwalking P1 to bottom of Mako. Has some scrubby shit to get thru to get onto the Mako belay ledge.
Simon Middlemass 5/3/16
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SA | Shark Attack | 14,16 | 87m |
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Named for the shark fin hangers that were recycled from old snowstakes when
retro bolted by Spoon who thought it was a new route. The first belay station
is only there as a rap point (if you don't have 2 ropes) so truck on by on a
nice long 50m pitch. Nick originally climbed the route on trad gear.
Nick Cradock, 1980s
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VC | The Vinyl Countdown | 15 | 45m |
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Starts from the P2 belay ledge of Red arete taking a line curving left between Red arete and Shark Attack to finish on the big Shark Attack/Red Arete ledge.
10 B to the lower ledge on Red arete and 3 more to the main Shark Attack ledge.
Grade uncertain as climbed in floppy hiking shoes. Feedback appreciated
Simon Middlemass 30/5/18
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RA | Red Arete | 14,13,15 | 93m |
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Tom Fyfe reputedly climbed this route solo, as preparation for the first
ascent of Aoraki Mt Cook. It has since been retro-bolted and makes a superb
moderate multi-pitch rock climb. It is probably best climbed in two long
pitches to the top of Shark Attack belay on the big ledge below the upper
bulging headwall.There are optional extra short pitches that follow the arete
from ledge to ledge. Some pro might be required. If you climb the 2nd pitch
as one long one you will need about 13 quickdraws.
There are many anchors over this wall - most with rings are to facilitate escape on a single 60m rope. They are not necessarily a good place to belay at on ascent. Lots of variations exist.
Tom Fyfe, 1894 (reputedly)
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Red Arete Alternative Start aka Antons Route | 13 | 37m |
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An alternative start to Red Arete, starting 3m right of that route and climbing to the belay station at the top of the first pitch.
Anton Wopereis
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