The main slabby wall to the right of the Central Gully. Probably the most climbed section of rock on the Sebastopol bluffs.
Park at the second lay by after the corner when driving towards the village from Unwin Lodge (about 1km).
There is a DoC sign and a track that leads to Black Birch stream. On the other side of the usually dry creek bed a track heads towards the prominent slabby looking areas on the right. If you're not on a well-trodden path, you're going wrong. There is a scrubby scree further right. The right arete is the famous "Red Arete".
On descent, the rap stations on the Red Wall are a long way apart, requiring 2 x 50+m ropes, however there are also several mid stations around 30m apart. Alternatively walk off the top or rap down the Red arete if there is no one on it as there are plenty of abseil stations.
Let's Go Bushwalking, Shark Attack and Red Arete have double rings for abseil descents mid-pitch on the first pitches, these are better left alone until you're descending. They are not pitch anchors.
Your descent may be determined by what routes are busy.
Normally people climb Red Arete and descend down Mako or Shark Attack. Mako is better if your ropes are even slightly less than 60m as the Shark Attack station is a stretch on half a 60m rope. Life is better on descent with double ropes.
WARNING: In case your rope is a bit short tie knots in the end.
NOTE: The number of bolts may be different to that listed - feel free to update this.
Routes
Reference | Title | Grade | Length | Pro | Quality | Operations |
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
E | Ernie | 18 | 35m | 6 | ||
B | Bert | 17 | 35m | 6 | ||
MP | Miss Piggy | 17 | 45m | 2 | ||
M | Mako | 16 | 63m | 8 | ||
LGB | Let’s Go Bushwalking | 15 | 35m | 10 | ||
SF | Something Fishy | 13 | 20m | 6 | ||
SA | Shark Attack | 16 | 87m | 12 | ||
VC | The Vinyl Countdown | 15 | 45m | 13 | ||
RA | Red Arete | 15 | 93m | 13 | ||
Red Arete Alternative Start aka Antons Route | 13 | 37m | 8 |