Callery Saddle was gained (from the Callery) by George Park and Robert Park in 1891, and it was crossed by Tom Fyfe and party in 1932. It was crossed again by George Lowe, Ed Hillary, Earle Riddiford, Ed Cotter and Bill Beaven on 30 December 1950.
Callery Saddle and Glacier from the slopes of McFetrick Peak
Whataroa to Callery
Route 9.06, grade II, 2+. From Whymper Hut, follow the stream down to its junction with the stream draining Pt 1572m. Alternatively, access this stream directly from the Whataroa River. Ascend this stream then veer north over a tussock shoulder, keeping up towards the base of bluffs, and continue across gullies at about the same altitude (about 1280–1320m) to a narrow snow gully draining Pt 2142m. A route needs to be found from here up a rocky pitch to the snowfield under Callery Saddle and is the crux of the crossing. From the snowfield the route is straightforward to reach the saddle (1843m).
To descend to the Callery River from Callery Saddle, avoid the slopes immediately below the saddle. Instead, sidle out to the left (south-west), reaching a prominent gully draining the Callery Glacier at about 1560m. Continue sidling out onto a shoulder on the true left of this gully, and then descend scree and boulders to the Callery valley floor.
Time: Allow a full day for the crossing.
CW Alps 2009 (Geoff Spearpoint, Yvonne Cook, CMC)