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Petit Heap

Type
Altitude
2235m

Some excellent routes on great rock have been climbed on the ribs on the north side of Pt 2235m.

Lat/lon
-43.593726,170.253496, NZ Topo Map
Approach

Access is from the Reay valley.

Accessed from
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Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Alert Operations
A ASo Called Arthur King, II,5,18 II,5,18 245m
1.02

Takes the skyline pillar (as viewed from the confluence of the Reay and Walpole Streams in the Reay Valley) via a series of corners and arêtes to the lower North West Ridge of Mt Johnson. Six or seven pitches of generally good quality rock with some exposed climbing, good protection and a really nice topout ledge before an easy-angled scramble to point 2235m.
To access the route from the upper Reay valley, continue sidling on the true right of the Reay Stream until a crossing point is reached a short way above an impressive chasm.
Descend by heading south along the Northwest Ridge to a col and then dropping down scree and easy-angled snow to the upper Reay Valley.


  • P1
  • 15
  • Alpine (Commitment) II
  • Alpine (Technical) 5
  • 40m
  • Trad

Climb the right side of a pink column just left of an eroded grey streak to finish at a large belay ledge.


  • P2
  • 16
  • 40m
  • Trad

Trend left up slabby terrain to a shallow vertical corner. A couple of strenuous moves lead to a sloping ledge at the base of the main corner.


  • P3
  • 18
  • 60m
  • Trad

Up the main corner to a sitting belay ledge. Pitch could be split in two if climbing on 50m ropes.


  • P4
  • 11
  • 30m
  • Trad

Up a short face to an arête then follow a large crack diagonally up and right.


  • P5
  • 15
  • 40m
  • Trad

Climb the shallow and exposed rightward-trending corner.


  • P6
  • 11
  • 35m
  • Trad

Up a shallow, cracked groove then follow the prow to topout on a flat ledge with fantastic views of the valley and peaks above the Grand Plateau.


 Max Johnson, II,5,17 II,5,17 0m
0

Begin at the top of the scree slope beneath the most prominent buttress in the centre of the face. Traverse in from the left, aiming for the prominent 60m corner, shared with So Called Arthur King. Veer left after the corner then follow your nose to the top. Seven pitches of good rock followed by a short scramble to the summit. The first three pitches are the crux. Descend south to a prominent col, then descend the gully to the west (one abseil) to scree slopes.


  • P1
  • 17
  • Alpine (Commitment) II
  • Alpine (Technical) 5

 Tim Fin, I,4,14 I,4,14 0m
0

The westernmost of a series of prominent north-facing arêtes west of Pt 2235m. Two pitches up the arête on rough red sandstone, then 200m of easier climbing to the top. Easy descent down scree to the south.


  • P1
  • 14
  • Alpine (Commitment) I
  • Alpine (Technical) 4

 West Ridge, III,3+,14 III,3+,14 0m
0

Begin at the lowest point of the ridge. Follow the ridgeline via short faces of clean red rock, interspersed with some loose gullies. Routefinding choices will determine difficulty and quality of rock. Descend south to a prominent col, then descend the gully to the west (one abseil) to scree slopes. The first ascent took 12 hours.


  • P1
  • 14
  • Alpine (Commitment) III
  • Alpine (Technical) 3+

Comments
Attribution
ATP 2018 (Rob Frost)
UUID
 
bff94e56-00e6-419b-bc92-ebab547f66c6