South East Face Direct

Begin in the centre of the face with one pitch of tricky mixed climbing (limited protection), followed by two pitches traversing to the right, and then three pitches straight up. The next two pitches are the crux, and were about M5 with poor protection for the first ascentionists. Three more pitches up 45–50 degree snow leads to the summit ridge. The first ascentionists accessed the face from the Tasman via the Reay Glacier.