The first ascent of this route was an important part of the changing psychological approach to mountaineering occurring in New Zealand from the late 60s to early 70s. Murray Jones had begun soloing a more direct line, but joined Ross Gooder and John Stanton when they moved ahead of him. The three climbers completed the route as one party.
Scale scree and bluffs above the Mueller Glacier to reach the upper Frind Glacier, beneath the prominent cliffs of the Shelf Glacier. Ascend a snow face below and to the right of the icecliffs. Use the snow face to reach an arête on the true left edge of the Shelf Glacier, then take one of the routes from the Shelf Glacier to the summit (the first ascentionists used the Direct).
- P1
- Alpine (Commitment) VI
- Alpine (Technical) 3
Scale scree and bluffs above the Mueller Glacier, to reach the lower Shelf Glacier, beneath and just north of the prominent cliffs of the upper Shelf Glacier. Ascend the lower Shelf Glacier onto a snow face below and to the right of the icecliffs. Use the snow face to reach an arête on the right hand edge of the upper Shelf. At this point the two access routes from Sefton Bivvy join.