East Face

A visionary climb. Gain the Frind Glacier by either (i) climbing a steep, loose moraine wall as on the first ascent, or (ii) climbing up the lower Frind Glacier itself (both options are severely threatened by icecliff avalanche hazard). From the Frind Glacier head up the right side of a buttress, which is in the centre of the serac wall (crux 14). There is an exhilarating bivouac site at the top of the buttress, potentially safe from icecliff avalanche hazard. Negotiate the icecliff, cross the Shelf Glacier and finish up The Sun Also Rises.

Audacious. From the lower Mueller Glacier, follow the Direct Route to the upper Frind Glacier (aka the Lower Shelf) and then cross this to reach the prominent central buttress on the middle tier. Climb the rock buttress (the stand-out feature of this route) and scale the edge of the Shelf Glacier. Cross the glacier where crevasses permit, and then ascend the 3 of 3 route to the col between the summits. 2150m of ascent, and the plum line of the face.

The first ascent of this route was an important part of the changing psychological approach to mountaineering occurring in New Zealand from the late 60s to early 70s. Murray Jones had begun soloing a more direct line, but joined Ross Gooder and John Stanton when they moved ahead of him. The three climbers completed the route as one party.
Scale scree and bluffs above the Mueller Glacier to reach the upper Frind Glacier, beneath the prominent cliffs of the Shelf Glacier. Ascend a snow face below and to the right of the icecliffs. Use the snow face to reach an arête on the true left edge of the Shelf Glacier, then take one of the routes from the Shelf Glacier to the summit (the first ascentionists used the Direct).

Head up the rib behind the bivvy to where a broad bench runs across the top of the Huddleston Glacier. Negotiate your way into the upper Huddleston, from where you have two options:
(i) Continue up onto the Main Divide ridgeline left of Tuckett Col, and along to where the north-east ridge steepens. Traverse across a short section of broken, rocky ground on the face to rejoin the snow that leads into the upper Shelf.
(ii) Cross the prominent spur that bisects the Huddleston and Tuckett Glaciers at about 2500m, and continue traversing, angling towards the uppermost icefall that feeds the Tuckett Glacier. Once at the point between the rock band and the icefall, head up the true-right of the icefall (which is relatively protected from this point) and over the rib into the upper Shelf.
Then take one of the routes from the Shelf Glacier to the summit.

From the Shelf Glacier, climb a series of ice gullies separated by steep snowfields directly to the summit of Pt 3048m.

From the Shelf Glacier, head out on the prominent left-trending ramp to gain the upper south ridge, then traverse across the western slopes of Sefton to reach the summit.

Climb the bluffs to the right of the Harrow Ramp using a dribble of ice, then up snow slopes directly to the South Summit.

Up a short snow and ice couloir then up snow slopes leading onto the South Summit.

Straight up the couloir dropping beneath the two summits.