Aoraki Mt Cook Middle Pk

From the Upper Empress Shelf, ascend snowslopes and gain a short steep gully to the right of a large icecliff which leads to the col between the Middle and Low Peaks. This is a regular descent route (but often requires abseils on the first steep section). There is usually a schrund just above the col beneath the Middle Peak which is suitable for bivouacs (‘Middle Peak Hotel’, was the scene of Mark Inglis and Phil Doole’s epic fortnight survival in 1982).

A classic ice climb, perhaps the finest in New Zealand. The East Ridge joins Aoraki’s summit ridge about 200m south of Middle Peak. The lower section of the ridge can be gained at a number of points. The conventional routes are: i) From Cinerama Col, avoid the first 200m by sidling snow on the Plateau side then climbing straight up snow slopes to gain the ridge ii) From the shelf below the East Face, gain a snow ramp leading out left onto the ridge at about 2900m, below the main rock step. The rock step before the level section can be climbed direct (grade 8), or use a snow gully on the Caroline side. The level snow arête (the ‘Flat Spot’) above the rock step can also be gained directly from the shelf below the east face. Beyond the Flat Spot (it’s not flat), follow up the winding arête that merges into the upper Caroline Face and finishes near the Middle Peak. A lot of exposure down the Caroline Face, coupled with often hard to blue-green bullet-proof ice, can make this an intimidating section to climb. A range of descent options from Middle Peak should be considered: (a) Route 3.83 to the Empress Glacier, then down either to Pudding Rock, or to Empress Hut; (b) traverse to High Peak and descend the Linda Glacier (Route 4.29)—research recent conditions on this route first; or (c) down-climb the East Ridge.