East Ridge

A classic ice climb, perhaps the finest in New Zealand. The East Ridge joins Aoraki’s summit ridge about 200m south of Middle Peak. The lower section of the ridge can be gained at a number of points. The conventional routes are: i) From Cinerama Col, avoid the first 200m via the Plateau side, then head up slopes to gain the ridge. Follow the arête on up. ii) Via the shelf below the East Face gain a snow ramp leading out left onto the ridge below a rock step before a prominent level section on the ridge (This section can be gained directly from the shelf). Beyond the level section, follow up the winding arête that merges into the upper Caroline Face and finishes near the Middle Peak. Ice on the upper section of the route is often hard.