Porter Col Route

From the Upper Empress Shelf, ascend snowslopes and gain a short steep gully to the right of a large icecliff which leads to the col between the Middle and Low Peaks. This is a regular descent route (but often requires abseils on the first steep section). There is usually a schrund just above the col beneath the Middle Peak which is suitable for bivouacs (‘Middle Peak Hotel’, was the scene of Mark Inglis and Phil Doole’s epic fortnight survival in 1982).