Mt Teichelmann Rakirua

Start up steep gullies at the bottom centre of the face. Two pitches of steep ice in these gullies are the crux. They can be avoided by traversing in from the right. Several pitches up steep icefields lead to steep gullies that run up to the South Ridge (13 pitches in total).

Via Clarke Saddle, the route up the Main Divide to the peak is straightforward until the final summit cone where steep rock can be difficult and iced. If not covered by snow the rock is very loose.

From Mt Graham it is a simple climb until the exposed summit cone.

From the Balfour Glacier, either via Silberhorn or Mt Graham, there is little difficulty apart from the final rock cone (choss). Also see other routes on Mt Teichelmann/Rakirua.

A snow gully leads up onto the north-western side of Mt Teichelmann. This has also been used as a descent route, but beware of rockfall.