Square Top

(1 route)

Leaving Wyn Irwin with his maps, compasses and camera, we climbed further onto the next peak at the head of the valley (Square Top, about 7000 feet). Although the Divide arête consists of vertically heaped slates, somewhat loose, we had to risk its traverse on account of a schrund on the Hunter side and a tedious detour on the other.

At this stage, two of us being absolute novices, we would willingly have thrown our ice-axes down the six thousand feet to the valley below. The progress of our leader also was not helped by fearsome spider-like insects which jumped down from the ledges on to his face as he climbed up. The return was made by a quicker route which involved descending on to the snow slopes on the Landsborough side and traversing along to the pass.

Graham Riley, New Zealand Alpine Journal, 1934.

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