Natural pro requiredFollows the obvious high arete on the left of the main cliff. Even though the
route
meanders, you can be as direct as your boldness dictates. Rope drag stops the
route being done in one pitch, as found out on the first ascent.
- P1
- 16
- 20m
- 4
- Trad
Start up a crack to the right of the manuka bush and left of “Jesus Was A Leprechaun”, #1 Friend, then follow the face up till it overhangs. Step right to clip the fixed peg (with a long runner), then left again, and up to reach the ledge. 4 bolts, the last 2 do not take hangers. DBB on the right.
- P2
- 16
- 20m
- 1
- Trad
Step left from the ledge, and up the knobbly rock past a bolt and thread (thin tape or cord) to the fixed peg. Step out right to the arete to get past the next two bolts, then left again before reaching the ledge with a thread runner. Finish directly above the last bolt. An escape exists to the SBC on the right from the ledge. Bolt/chain belay points.