ACCESS IS CLOSED UNTIL FURTHER NOTICE
ACCESS IS CLOSED UNTIL FURTHER NOTICE
Access to the Base
From the car park stay on via right and stay on the old formed road (over-grown) down and to the east of castle rock. 500m on from a large slip look for a cairn and a rough but well marked climber’s track up the hill. This will get you to the left hand end of the Quiet Earth wall, Quiet Earth is 30m further right and ANZAC parade a further 40m up the hill.
Access to the Top
The track top of “Quiet Earth” wall is straight forward. To get to the top follow the public track to the look out. 5m from the top cut right and walk along the ridge. Drop down the first rock ridge/outcrop and climb over the second past an assortment of bolts. Just past this point tucked over the lip (and just out of sight) is the belay of ANZAC Parade.
Abseils.
You can rap down
Anzac Parade in 3 raps. Alternatively locate the rap station 5m further along the ridge down a small gully. Extend the rope 5m to the edge then a 60m rap gets you to top of 2nd pitch of ANZAC another 60m will get you to the base.
Quite Earth At the very end of the ridge is the belay of QE. From the belay lower off to the lip to a DB rap station. A 60m abseil gets you to the half height abseil station on a small busy ledge. (middle of pitch 3). From here a rope stretching 60m abseil gets you to the ground.
Routes
| Reference | Title | Grade | Length | Pro | Quality | Alert | Operations |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Quiet Earth, 22 | 22 | 125m | 15 |
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Decent. From the belay lower off to the lip to a DB rap station. A 60m abseil
Delicate smeary climbing. The crux is moving past the 3rd bolt. A clue, stay right. How can I put it, stand up on nothing then pull up on nothing, then stand on nothing and slap for big hold. The rock can weep a bit at the 4th bolt, but it is still climbable when wet. Move left then up wall before crossing back right. A great pitch.
From the belay continue up ramp then up the large left facing corner. From the top of the corner climb groove through the steep head wall. Steep and exposed!!! Belay at triple bolt belay at top of head wall, It’s out there.
Climb the short head wall tending left past 3 bolts to a DBC belay. This is the half height belay station. Clip the belay then move back right, the easy slab just gets steeper and steeper until it’s an over-hanging wall. Powerful climbing on big holds. DB belay on ramp above.
Climb the low angle face out right of the belay then straight up vertical face to small roof. Move right and pull through roof at V (crux). Clip the bolt then up to DBC belay.
It’s not over yet. A hard couple of moves off the belay ledge (crux). Clipping the 1st bolt off the belay is not only in, but advised. Once past the second bolt it’s a blast up the steep wall blast, on enormous holds. An amazing location with plenty of air below your boots. Finish up easy ground, past abseil station, to belay on top of Castle Rock. Well done! |
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| The Naughty Climb, 21 | 21 | 110m | 16 |
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Pitch 1 bolted by Chris
Aid up the busy gully for about 8m on bolt ladder until you can get onto the wall. Once on the wall, a few steep moves get you onto easy ground and pleasant climbing to a DBC belay. A great pitch, and don’t let the Aid put you off, it’s just an easy way to get out of the bush and onto the wall.
From the belay move right, and then, once above the belay, cross back left and climb through the roof (crux). Continue up the wall tending right. Move right around onto low angle wall then through one last steep section before you move left onto belay ledge and DB belay. Long pitch, great location.
Climb the groove directly above belay past 3 bolts, then move left onto wall. From here sustained technical climbing leads up past 3 bolts and gets you to a sloping ledge under a roof. Move left onto the face, move up past 2 bolts, then traverse right 5m before climbing up groove and onto big ledge system. Move 5m left to the DBC belay.
A pleasant little pitch to finish on, steep rock with big holds - Tends left all the way to the top. Finishes at same Belay as Quiet Earth. |
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| ANZAC Parade, 20 | 20 | 125m | 12 |
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From the ground climb the slab to the right of the bush filled gully. Pick your way delicately up the wall. Move left at the 6th bolt, up low angle ramp then through steep ground above. Sling tree, then pull up on tree to belay stance.
From the belay step left onto the main cliff and climb up steep bulgey ground to the small roof. Pull through the roof then continue up steep easy ground tending right to the DBC belay.
From the belay, easy steep ground leads up to the groove through the roof. Clip the chain extended bolt, then get established in the groove above (crux). Then with your heart in your mouth climb the groove, clip the bolt at the top then move right. Another technical move gets you onto the ramp above, Climb the ramp tending right to the big party ledge. DBC Belay.
Climb the face to the roof and phallic knob, pull on it and onto the face, out left (A cheap double entre but you will all remember the move). Climb the face to ledge then up step bulgy ground to top. The last move up onto the belay ledge is the crux. Stay left until you can grab the top lip. |
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