Skip to main content

The Naughty Climb

Grade
21
Length
110m
16
Quality
2.01
First ascent
FAA Cliff Ellery & Jess Dobson, alternative Leads, 2013.
Pitch 4 bolted and Climbed by Phil Higgins and Chris
Located on

Pitch 1 bolted by Chris
Pitch 2 bolted by Phil Higgins and Cliff Ellery,
Pitch 3 bolted by Cliff Ellery.
Pitch 4 bolted and Climbed by Phil Higgins and Chris.


  • P1
  • 18
  • 20m
  • 14

Aid up the busy gully for about 8m on bolt ladder until you can get onto the wall. Once on the wall, a few steep moves get you onto easy ground and pleasant climbing to a DBC belay. A great pitch, and don’t let the Aid put you off, it’s just an easy way to get out of the bush and onto the wall.


  • P2
  • 16
  • 45m
  • 16

From the belay move right, and then, once above the belay, cross back left and climb through the roof (crux). Continue up the wall tending right. Move right around onto low angle wall then through one last steep section before you move left onto belay ledge and DB belay. Long pitch, great location.


  • P3
  • 21
  • 25m
  • 9

Climb the groove directly above belay past 3 bolts, then move left onto wall. From here sustained technical climbing leads up past 3 bolts and gets you to a sloping ledge under a roof. Move left onto the face, move up past 2 bolts, then traverse right 5m before climbing up groove and onto big ledge system. Move 5m left to the DBC belay.


  • P4
  • 16
  • 20m
  • 8

A pleasant little pitch to finish on, steep rock with big holds - Tends left all the way to the top. Finishes at same Belay as Quiet Earth.


Comments
Attribution
Cliff Ellery -Freeclimb.co.nz
UUID
 
1c49d60c-6ec7-446d-8576-10b2b54ae6c9