Quiet Earth

Type: 
Rock
Description: 
Decent. From the belay lower off to the lip to a DB rap station. A 60m abseil gets you to the half height abseil station on a small busy ledge. (middle of pitch 3). From here a rope stretching 60m abseil gets you to the ground. This is the easiest way to desend the quiet Earth wall.
Pitch(es): 
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
12225m14No
 

Delicate smeary climbing. The crux is moving past the 3rd bolt. A clue, stay right. How can I put it, stand up on nothing then pull up on nothing, then stand on nothing and slap for big hold. The rock can weep a bit at the 4th bolt, but it is still climbable when wet. Move left then up wall before crossing back right. A great pitch.

22030m15No
 

From the belay continue up ramp then up the large left facing corner. From the top of the corner climb groove through the steep head wall. Steep and exposed!!! Belay at triple bolt belay at top of head wall, It’s out there.

31930m12No
 

Climb the short head wall tending left past 3 bolts to a DBC belay. This is the half height belay station. Clip the belay then move back right, the easy slab just gets steeper and steeper until it’s an over-hanging wall. Powerful climbing on big holds. DB belay on ramp above.

42220m9No
 

Climb the low angle face out right of the belay then straight up vertical face to small roof. Move right and pull through roof at V (crux). Clip the bolt then up to DBC belay.

51920m8No
 

It’s not over yet. A hard couple of moves off the belay ledge (crux). Clipping the 1st bolt off the belay is not only in, but advised. Once past the second bolt it’s a blast up the steep wall blast, on enormous holds. An amazing location with plenty of air below your boots. Finish up easy ground, past abseil station, to belay on top of Castle Rock. Well done!

Grade: 
22 ,20 ,19 ,22 ,19
Quality: 
3
Gone: 
0
Length: 
125m
Bolts: 
58
Natural pro: 
0
Attribution: 
Cliff Ellery. Freeclimb.co.nz
Ascent: 
FFA. Cliff Ellery and Jess Dobson, alternate leads 20/10/2013
1st pitch bolted and climbed by Pitch Phil Higgins
UUID: 
1b8b3ff1-e65e-4157-89c2-6d476cacae8b