Trango Tragedy

Good gear all the way and heaps of exposure. Start under the obvious overhanging chimney, at the right end of the orange wall. Climb crack systems in the steep wall to gain the bottom of the chimney either directly or from the left (crux). On the first ascent, a section of hanging blocks was tackled to get into the hanging chimney. A #6 Trango cam was lost about here. Shortly after, Richard Turner ‘spent hours removing vast amounts of debris . . . including five or more half-metre lumps of free-hanging death’, thinking he was cleaning a new route. Take double ropes, thread slings and a full rack.