Golden Wall

Begin at the left end of the major section of overhangs. There are good mid-size cams in the overhang. Continue up a slight weakness in the wall above.

Up the right side of the Cyclops bulge. Move left after the third bolt. Five bolts, double bolt belay.

Thoughtful moves on edges and slopes up the immaculate wall, then big moves left and up through the roof. An essential classic.

The central line on the wall. Start as for Ape To Angel, but bust straight out through the roof on slopers and edges with a final move crux.

The right-hand line on the wall. Grapple through the roof by slapping the sides of the huge fridge-sized protuberance.

Good gear all the way and heaps of exposure. Start under the obvious overhanging chimney, at the right end of the orange wall. Climb crack systems in the steep wall to gain the bottom of the chimney either directly or from the left (crux). On the first ascent, a section of hanging blocks was tackled to get into the hanging chimney. A #6 Trango cam was lost about here. Shortly after, Richard Turner ‘spent hours removing vast amounts of debris . . . including five or more half-metre lumps of free-hanging death’, thinking he was cleaning a new route. Take double ropes, thread slings and a full rack.

Top notch trad climbing with good protection all the way. Climb corners and bulges to a good stance in the groove. Move left and up under the overhang (crux), take a deep breath, step right and power up the top wall. Can be climbed on a single rope, take lots of slings, medium-to-big wires and CDs to Camalot 2.

Climb The Full Monty to the natural rest about 3m below the roof. Layback the crack out right (crux) then traverse right around the bulge and up easy ground to the top. Double ropes, slings and a full rack.