Right End | ClimbNZ

Type

Altitude

1600m

Part of

As the names indicates, this is the right-hand (northern) end of the crag. Beyond the routes listed here the cliff gets shorter: several minor routes are possible on that section, all around grades 12–16, on natural pro.

Walktime

20 min

Aspect

East

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Routes

Reference	Title	Grade	Length	Pro	Quality
	Sculpin, 23	23		5	0
P1 23 5
	Electronomicon, 23	23	15m	5	1.02
P1 23 15m 5 Climbs the left side of the bulge adjacent to the offwidth project.
	Dodecahedron, 31	31		5	0
P1 31 5 Easy (but often wet) slab leads to a steep boulder on a rope. Juggy fun to finish.
3	3Vermillion, 25	25			0
P1 25 Trad Head up the wet slab to the back of the roof, then force yourself into the wide crack and struggle to the top. Big Cams are useful!
4	4Serial Pillar, 18	18	20m	5	2.01
P1 18 20m 5 A clean pillar of rock, just to the left of the obvious water streak. Five bolts. Step right at the top to a double bolt belay on a big dome of lava.
5	5Goldie, 18	18	25m		0
P1 18 25m Trad Climbs the wall right of the water streak. Start right of the bulge, then straight up with a steep finish. Natural gear. Belay as for the previous climb.
	Nausea, 18	18			1.02
P1 18 Climb on the left of the small cave.
	Essential Tremor, 19	19	18m		0
P1 19 18m Trad Climb straight up into the small cave to the right of Goldie (crux), then directly up the wall. Small cams and wires handy. Double bolt belay.
6	6Mountain Mantle, 19	19	15m	6	1.02
P1 19 15m 6 Climbs up the slab: a bit of a tricky start then easy climbing leads to a difficult mantle (crux). Six bolts, double bolt belay.
7	7Kathleen’s Back, 15	15	35m		0
P1 15 35m Trad Look for the obvious chimney feature, approximately 20m before the end of the crag. Proceed up leftwards along an easy ramp to a flake. Climb the flake, and traverse right for 5m along an obvious ledge, exiting into a small stance. Using a chockstone for protection, climb the chimney and then move left to top out.
8	8Natural Selection, 22	22	20m		0
P1 22 20m Trad Up the white-streaked wall, then commit to the steep country above to reach easier ground.
	Unknown, 21	21	20m	7	3
P1 21 20m 7 Climb the steepening slab with a sting in the tail.

Comments

jarvoramas

I climbed a route on Sunday which to me looked like an extension of Kathleen’s Back , it was fully bolted and a cool climb . It went almost directly upwards , i would love to know what it is called and the grade if anyone knows ( i thought maybe low 20's ) ? The way i did it was very difficult doing a mantle/body compression type thing through the crux which felt really hard , a friend used some better beta with a side pull to a dead point . It was a great day up the mountain what a place !

Tue, 26/04/2011 - 18:22 Permalink

UUID

bb0ed251-e881-4e45-9544-0b7b1336a482