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  3. North Island
  4. Tongariro
  5. Whakapapa Gorge
  6. Right End

Right End

(15 routes)

As the names indicates, this is the right-hand (northern) end of the crag. Beyond the routes listed here the cliff gets shorter: several minor routes are possible on that section, all around grades 12–16, on natural pro.

Altitude: 
1600m
Type: 
Wall
Aspect: 
East
Walk time: 
20 min
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
Geogaddi 26 35m
0
 9bolts
John Palmer, 27 February 2021
1 The Full Monty 23 35m
3
 wire representing trad
A pleasant groove, a fraught crux and a sustained headwall. Start below and just right of the overhangs, up the streaked wall. Carry on, moving leftwards to get up under the upper line of overhangs (crux). From a cramped position in the alcove beneath the roof, take a deep breath, step right and power up the top wall. Take double ropes, thread slings and a full rack (CDs to no.4).
Paul Rogers, Richard Thomson, February 1998
2 Take the Easy Way Out 18 20m
0
 wire representing trad
Climb The Full Monty to the natural rest about 3m below the roof. Layback the crack out right (crux) then traverse right around the bulge and up easy ground to the top. Double ropes, slings and a full rack.
Cliff Ellery, Kevin Barratt, February 2005
Sculpin 23
0
 5bolts
John Palmer, 2021
Electronomicon 23 15m
1.02
 5bolts
Climbs the left side of the bulge adjacent to the offwidth project.
John Palmer
Dodecahedron 31
0
Easy (but often wet) slab leads to a steep boulder on a rope. Juggy fun to finish.
John Palmer, 9 April 2021
3 Vermillion 25
0
Head up the wet slab to the back of the roof, then force yourself into the wide crack and struggle to the top. Big Cams are useful!
FFA, Jacob Kuchler, 4/12/22
4 Serial Pillar 18 20m
2.01
 5bolts
A clean pillar of rock, just to the left of the obvious water streak. Five bolts. Step right at the top to a double bolt belay on a big dome of lava.
Paul Rogers
5 Goldie 18 25m
0
 wire representing trad
Climbs the wall right of the water streak. Start right of the bulge, then straight up with a steep finish. Natural gear. Belay as for the previous climb.
Paul Rogers
Nausea 18
1.02
Climb on the left of the small cave.
Prajot Sabnis, January 2020
Essential Tremor 19 18m
0
 wire representing trad
Climb straight up into the small cave to the right of Goldie (crux), then directly up the wall. Small cams and wires handy. Double bolt belay.
Tom Wilson, Brigid Borlase 2007
6 Mountain Mantle 19 15m
1.02
 6bolts
Climbs up the slab: a bit of a tricky start then easy climbing leads to a difficult mantle (crux). Six bolts, double bolt belay.
Bryce Martin, Cliff Ellery, Kevin Barratt, February 2005
7 Kathleen’s Back 15 35m
0
 wire representing trad
Look for the obvious chimney feature, approximately 20m before the end of the crag. Proceed up leftwards along an easy ramp to a flake. Climb the flake, and traverse right for 5m along an obvious ledge, exiting into a small stance. Using a chockstone for protection, climb the chimney and then move left to top out.
Angel Vila, Kathleen Lee, April 2004
8 Natural Selection 22 20m
0
 wire representing trad
Up the white-streaked wall, then commit to the steep country above to reach easier ground.
Sean Campbell
Unknown 21 20m
3
 7bolts
Climb the steepening slab with a sting in the tail.
Paul Rogers

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UUID: 
bb0ed251-e881-4e45-9544-0b7b1336a482

Comments

Submitted by jarvoramas on Tue, 26/04/2011 - 18:22

I climbed a route on Sunday which to me looked like an extension of Kathleen’s Back , it was fully bolted and a cool climb . It went almost directly upwards , i would love to know what it is called and the grade if anyone knows ( i thought maybe low 20's ) ? The way i did it was very difficult doing a mantle/body compression type thing through the crux which felt really hard , a friend used some better beta with a side pull to a dead point . It was a great day up the mountain what a place !