Right End | ClimbNZ

Type

Altitude

1600m

Part of

As the names indicates, this is the right-hand (northern) end of the crag. Beyond the routes listed here the cliff gets shorter: several minor routes are possible on that section, all around grades 12–16, on natural pro.

Walktime

20 min

Aspect

East

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Routes

Reference	Title	Grade	Length	Pro	Quality
	Geogaddi, 26	26	35m	9	0
P1 26 35m 9
1	1The Full Monty, 23	23	30m		3
P1 23 30m Trad Top notch trad climbing with good protection all the way. Climb corners and bulges to a good stance in the groove. Move left and up under the overhang (crux), take a deep breath, step right and power up the top wall. Can be climbed on a single rope, take lots of slings, medium-to-big wires and CDs to Camalot 2.
2	2Take the Easy Way Out, 18	18	20m		0
P1 18 20m Trad Climb The Full Monty to the natural rest about 3m below the roof. Layback the crack out right (crux) then traverse right around the bulge and up easy ground to the top. Double ropes, slings and a full rack.
	Sculpin, 23	23		5	0
P1 23 5
	Electronomicon, 23	23	15m	5	1.02
P1 23 15m 5 Climbs the left side of the bulge adjacent to the offwidth project.
	Dodecahedron, 31	31		5	0
P1 31 5 Easy (but often wet) slab leads to a steep boulder on a rope. Juggy fun to finish.
3	3Vermillion, 25	25			0
P1 25 Trad Head up the wet slab to the back of the roof, then force yourself into the wide crack and struggle to the top. Big Cams are useful!
4	4Serial Pillar, 18	18	20m	5	2.01
P1 18 20m 5 A clean pillar of rock, just to the left of the obvious water streak. Five bolts. Step right at the top to a double bolt belay on a big dome of lava.
5	5Goldie, 18	18	25m		0
P1 18 25m Trad Climbs the wall right of the water streak. Start right of the bulge, then straight up with a steep finish. Natural gear. Belay as for the previous climb.
	Nausea, 18	18			1.02
P1 18 Climb on the left of the small cave.
	Essential Tremor, 19	19	18m		0
P1 19 18m Trad Climb straight up into the small cave to the right of Goldie (crux), then directly up the wall. Small cams and wires handy. Double bolt belay.
6	6Mountain Mantle, 19	19	15m	6	1.02
P1 19 15m 6 Climbs up the slab: a bit of a tricky start then easy climbing leads to a difficult mantle (crux). Six bolts, double bolt belay.
7	7Kathleen’s Back, 15	15	35m		0
P1 15 35m Trad Look for the obvious chimney feature, approximately 20m before the end of the crag. Proceed up leftwards along an easy ramp to a flake. Climb the flake, and traverse right for 5m along an obvious ledge, exiting into a small stance. Using a chockstone for protection, climb the chimney and then move left to top out.
8	8Natural Selection, 22	22	20m		0
P1 22 20m Trad Up the white-streaked wall, then commit to the steep country above to reach easier ground.
	Unknown, 21	21	20m	7	3
P1 21 20m 7 Climb the steepening slab with a sting in the tail.

Comments

jarvoramas

I climbed a route on Sunday which to me looked like an extension of Kathleen’s Back , it was fully bolted and a cool climb . It went almost directly upwards , i would love to know what it is called and the grade if anyone knows ( i thought maybe low 20's ) ? The way i did it was very difficult doing a mantle/body compression type thing through the crux which felt really hard , a friend used some better beta with a side pull to a dead point . It was a great day up the mountain what a place !

Tue, 26/04/2011 - 18:22 Permalink

UUID

bb0ed251-e881-4e45-9544-0b7b1336a482