Margaret's Leap

(4 routes)

The very prominate circ that can be seen from the carpart. This crag has the most acessable ice climbing in the country in June & July. THe circ is significantly overhanging, and offers challenges for the most serious Rock and Ice climbers.

Type: 
Crag
Altitude: 
1850m
Aspect: 
South East
Access: 

Best access is to ascent the ridge directly in front of the end of the road (left of the Aorangio (upper) tow shed, then traverse to the northern side of the crag. An alternative approach is up the Maragert's landing gully.

Lat/Lon: 
-39.280217090000, 175.601585060000
NZMS260: 
T20 345 106
Topo50: 
BJ34 244 489
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Edit link
Spritz 16 60m
1.02
wire representing trad
Pillar on right of main cascade at Margaret's Leap. 1st pitch. Start in the middle of the space at the base of the pillar. We left room for another route to the left. Good fun climbing on solid rock (15/16). Belay on small wires on a ledge at the same height the resurgence. 2nd Pitch. Directly up step rock (16) on to easier ground to belay when kicks back. Bood bollards for top belay. Bound to be a classic.
Don French, Helen Chapman 3/1/2015
Wright/Hiscoke/French 18 50m
0
wire representing trad 3
Left hand end of Margaret's leap, where major rock wall which is slightly scolloped. Climb up cracks at first into slightly overhanging section keeping a relatively straight line. Pass difficulty with s slight move to the right onto easier ground. Belay high up to the left near the crest of the buttress. Short second pitch onto easy ground. Rock OK, but there is the odd loose rock. Route might be longer as first ascent was from a substancial snow base.
James Wright, Blair Hiscoke, Don French, November 2010
The Curtain WI2 50m
1.02
This is a superb wide wall that consistently forms well. There are three or four obvious lines to try, and many variations on these have been climbed.
The Shroud
1.02
In cold winters two impressive and apparently unclimbed free-hanging icicles form down the overhanging cliff left of the Curtain. The icicle immediately right of the Curtain is about 40m high. The stupendous main icicle is perhaps 60m high, 10m in girth and hangs free by four or five metres. Further left again on a sunnier aspect is a steep drainage line that would make another hard route.