Margaret's Leap

(4 routes)

The very prominent cirque that can be seen from the car park. This crag has the most accessible ice climbing in the country in June & July. The cirque is significantly overhanging, and offers challenges for the most serious rock and ice climbers.

South East
Walk time: 
30 min

Best access is to ascend the ridge directly in front of the end of the road (left of the Aorangi (upper) tow shed, then traverse to the northern side of the crag. An alternative approach is up the Margaret's landing gully.

-39.280217090000, 175.601585060000
T20 345 106
BJ34 244 489
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
Spritz 16 60m
wire representing trad
Pillar on right of main cascade at Margaret's Leap. 1st pitch. Start in the middle of the space at the base of the pillar. We left room for another route to the left. Good fun climbing on solid rock (15/16). Belay on small wires on a ledge at the same height the resurgence. 2nd Pitch. Directly up step rock (16) on to easier ground to belay when kicks back. Bood bollards for top belay. Bound to be a classic.
Don French, Helen Chapman 3/1/2015
Wright/Hiscoke/French 18 50m
wire representing trad 3
Left hand end of Margaret's leap, where major rock wall which is slightly scolloped. Climb up cracks at first into slightly overhanging section keeping a relatively straight line. Pass difficulty with s slight move to the right onto easier ground. Belay high up to the left near the crest of the buttress. Short second pitch onto easy ground. Rock OK, but there is the odd loose rock. Route might be longer as first ascent was from a substancial snow base.
James Wright, Blair Hiscoke, Don French, November 2010
The Curtain WI2 50m
This is a superb wide wall that consistently forms well. There are three or four obvious lines to try, and many variations on these have been climbed.
The Shroud
In cold winters two impressive and apparently unclimbed free-hanging icicles form down the overhanging cliff left of the Curtain. The icicle immediately right of the Curtain is about 40m high. The stupendous main icicle is perhaps 60m high, 10m in girth and hangs free by four or five metres. Further left again on a sunnier aspect is a steep drainage line that would make another hard route.