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Can I Play With Madness

Grade
M5
Length
40m
7
Natural pro required
Quality
2.01
First ascent
P1-2 Edwin Sheppard and Prajot Sabnis 2021. P3 Edwin Sheppard and Romain Albert 2021 (on pre-placed gear).
Located on
Margarets Leap (winter)

Up the groove left of Comedy of Errors then p2 heads up steep rock to the hanging icicle. Safety note: don't climb pitch 2 if the rock isn't well frozen together.
Gear: P1-2 couple ice screws and a rack of draws. P3: Wires, cams and a couple of pitons.
Descent: 30m rap to ground from the top of P2.

  • P1
  • Mixed M5
  • 10m
  • 5
  • Trad

Place a screw in the ice at the start, climb up bolted crack then leftwards traverse to the double ring anchors.

  • P2
  • Mixed M6
  • 20m
  • 7
  • Trad

Straight up vertical wall above the belay, then rising traverse through steep blocky ground to join the righthand side of the large icicle (M6+). Double ring belay in the cave above.

  • P3
  • Mixed M7
  • 10m
  • Trad

Pure trad pitch, climbed on pre-placed gear. There is a sling and biner anchor at the top of the groove, placed 2021.

Comments
UUID
 
c03784eb-dbc3-4389-99ba-b57e307f1eb6