The first multi-pitch mixed route at Margaret's! Something for everyone, the first 1.5 pitches are relatively beginner-friendly. Note bolts are painted black to reduce visual impact.
Descent: You can climb the first 1.5 pitches ground up and lower off a maillon before the crux (M5+ to here). If you climb through the roof you will need to second the route or down-aid and clean. 30m rap from the second anchor to ground. The third pitch can easily be accessed from the top.
- P1
- Mixed M5
- 10m
- 5
Start in the groove just left of the main icefall, look for the first bolt around head-height. Tricky mantle at the first ledge leads up to double ring anchor.
- P2
- Mixed M7
- 20m
- 8
Up vertical face (M5+) to the base of the ice-choked roof crack. There is a lower-off maillon on the final bolt before the roof - wildly overhanging moves on good hooks! Double ring belay on the snowy ledge.
- P3
- Mixed M8
- 10m
- 4
Burly moves off the ledge lead to thin climbing following the slabby crack. Fully bolted pitch but you will need to build a trad anchor well back from the lip (take a long cordalette).
