Margarets Leap (winter)

Type

Altitude

1850m

Part of

The very prominent cirque that can be seen from the car park. This crag has the most accessible ice climbing in the country in June & July. The cirque is significantly overhanging, and offers challenges for the most serious rock and ice climbers.

Walktime

30 min

Aspect

South East

Lat/lon

-39.28021709,175.60158506, NZ Topo Map

Topo50

BJ34 244 489

Approach

Best access is to ascend the ridge directly in front of the end of the road (left of the Aorangi (upper) tow shed, then traverse to the northern side of the crag. An alternative approach is up the Margaret's landing gully.

Add Place Add Route

Places

Type	Name	Alert
Crag	Margaret's Mound

Routes

Reference	Title	Grade	Length	Pro	Quality
	The Curtain, WI2	WI2	50m		1.02
P1 Water Ice WI2 50m This is a superb wide wall that consistently forms well. There are three or four obvious lines to try, and many variations on these have been climbed.
	The Shroud				1.02
In cold winters two impressive and apparently unclimbed free-hanging icicles form down the overhanging cliff left of the Curtain. The icicle immediately right of the Curtain is about 40m high. The stupendous main icicle is perhaps 60m high, 10m in girth and hangs free by four or five metres. Further left again on a sunnier aspect is a steep drainage line that would make another hard route.
	Comedy of Errors, M5	M5	40m	8	3
The first multi-pitch mixed route at Margaret's! Something for everyone, the first 1.5 pitches are relatively beginner-friendly. Note bolts are painted black to reduce visual impact. Descent: You can climb the first 1.5 pitches ground up and lower off a maillon before the crux (M5+ to here). If you climb through the roof you will need to second the route or down-aid and clean. 30m rap from the second anchor to ground. The third pitch can easily be accessed from the top. P1 Mixed M5 10m 5 Start in the groove just left of the main icefall, look for the first bolt around head-height. Tricky mantle at the first ledge leads up to double ring anchor. P2 Mixed M7 20m 8 Up vertical face (M5+) to the base of the ice-choked roof crack. There is a lower-off maillon on the final bolt before the roof - wildly overhanging moves on good hooks! Double ring belay on the snowy ledge. P3 Mixed M8 10m 4 Burly moves off the ledge lead to thin climbing following the slabby crack. Fully bolted pitch but you will need to build a trad anchor well back from the lip (take a long cordalette).
	Can I Play With Madness, M5	M5	40m	7	2.01
Up the groove left of Comedy of Errors then p2 heads up steep rock to the hanging icicle. Safety note: don't climb pitch 2 if the rock isn't well frozen together. Gear: P1-2 couple ice screws and a rack of draws. P3: Wires, cams and a couple of pitons. Descent: 30m rap to ground from the top of P2. P1 Mixed M5 10m 5 Trad Place a screw in the ice at the start, climb up bolted crack then leftwards traverse to the double ring anchors. P2 Mixed M6 20m 7 Trad Straight up vertical wall above the belay, then rising traverse through steep blocky ground to join the righthand side of the large icicle (M6+). Double ring belay in the cave above. P3 Mixed M7 10m Trad Pure trad pitch, climbed on pre-placed gear. There is a sling and biner anchor at the top of the groove, placed 2021.
	Scottishish, M3	M3	25m		1.02
P1 Mixed M3 25m Trad Trad mixed climbing up the buttress right of the shroud. Build a trad anchor below the final headwall then escape to the gully on the right. Gear: Wires, small-med cams, couple of pitons.
	Squealing Frenchman, M8	M8	30m	8	0
Hard start past a bolt, take some trad, them into the steep face through some icicles. P1 Mixed M8 30m 8
	Freak on a leash, M10	M10	30m	13	0
P1 Mixed M10 30m 13 Steep powerfull climbing Following the obvious line of weakness that cuts right at the top of the roof.
	Mixed Metaphor, M9	M9	30m	15	0
Pumpy technical climbing leads you left out of the roof. P1 Mixed M9 30m 15
	Woke Sushi, M3	M3	0m		0
Goes up the end of the buttress on the small rigde on the far left side of Margarets. Top is accessible to set up a top route. P1 Mixed M3 Head up the small conglomerate layer to the ledge, then head up on good hooks to the anchor.

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UUID

9dddc70f-8174-487e-9cd2-b122db1d0a04