Margarets Leap

(2 routes)

The very prominent cirque that can be seen from the car park. This crag has the most accessible ice climbing in the country in June & July. The cirque is significantly overhanging, and offers challenges for the most serious rock and ice climbers.

Type: 
Face (Alpine)
Altitude: 
1850m
Aspect: 
South East
Walk time: 
30 min
Access: 

Best access is to ascend the ridge directly in front of the end of the road (left of the Aorangi (upper) tow shed, then traverse to the northern side of the crag. An alternative approach is up the Margaret's landing gully.

Lat/Lon: 
-39.280217090000, 175.601585060000
NZMS260: 
T20 345 106
Topo50: 
BJ34 244 489
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Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
The Curtain WI2 50m
1.02
This is a superb wide wall that consistently forms well. There are three or four obvious lines to try, and many variations on these have been climbed.
The Shroud
1.02
In cold winters two impressive and apparently unclimbed free-hanging icicles form down the overhanging cliff left of the Curtain. The icicle immediately right of the Curtain is about 40m high. The stupendous main icicle is perhaps 60m high, 10m in girth and hangs free by four or five metres. Further left again on a sunnier aspect is a steep drainage line that would make another hard route.
UUID: 
9dddc70f-8174-487e-9cd2-b122db1d0a04