Even from the main road, the large prow of rock that is Bomb Arête can be easily seen. This route is probably the most famous rock climb, on the most obvious feature, in the national park – and it deserves the praise it receives. But it is by no means the only route worth climbing on what is the tallest wall in the valley, sitting high on the flanks of Pukekaikiore.
Climbs are described from left to right when looking at the cliff.
Approach the cliff by following the poled track to the 1954 lava flow, then head towards a large and obvious boulder at the edge of the scrub, directly below the cliff. A track heads up the hillside, starting just left of this boulder.
The descent off the top of the climbs is on the true right (east) of the cliff. A fairly easy scramble down the first major gully takes you back to the base of the cliff.
Places
| Type | Name |
|---|---|
| Sector | Upper Tier |
Routes
| Reference | Title | Grade | Length | Pro | Quality | Operations |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Full Metal Jacket | 18,A2 | 20m |  |
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| 2 | Life, the Universe and Everything | 18 | 110m | |
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| 3 | Boulder Problems | 22 | 120m | |
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| 4 | American Pie | 17 | 30m | |
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| 5 | Bomb Arête | 16 | 110m | |
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| 6 | Wainui Route | 15 | 30m | |
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| 7 | The Jolly Route | 18 | |
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| 8 | Power and Corruption | 21 | 8m | |
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| 9 | Lies and Deceit | 19 | 30m | |
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