

Reference | Title | Grade | Length | Quality | Bolts | Gone | Natural pro | Link to edit content | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
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1 | Full Metal Jacket | 18 A2 | 20m |
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This route attacks the main series of overhangs on the left wall. Start just right of two large blocks that stick out from the roof band like thumbs. Climb a series of blocks and cracks to reach the roof, then move left, heading for the line of weakness between the two large jutting blocks. Continue on aid, using friends and wires, up through the weakness. Two pitons were left in-situ as a belay on the wall above, but will almost certainly now need replacing. Abseil off.
Grant Davidson, 27 March 1988
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2 | Life, the Universe and Everything | 15 ,18 ,12 | 110m |
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The first route to break through the impressive set of overhangs immediately
left of Bomb Arête. It was first attempted by Doug Wilson, who was unable to
break through the second band of overhangs on pitch two. Again, a hammer and
pitons are advisable.
Grant Davidson, Jo Straker, 12 January 1983
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3 | Boulder Problems | 22 ,17 ,8 | 120m |
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On the left side of the arête is a thin crack which splits a gently
overhanging wall.
Graeme Dingle, Hugh McNair, 12 May 1975 (with aid); First free ascent: Pete Giles
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4 | American Pie | 17 | 30m |
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This pitch is an interesting though slightly harder alternative start to Bomb Arête. Start in the corner to the left of the buttress, and climb the slanting slab to a steep wall. Climb this wall and then the hand crack which leads through a bulge, moving right at the top. Continue on easier ground to the first pitch belay ledge on the crest of the buttress.
Graeme Dingle, Jimmy the American hitchhiker, 1973
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5 | Bomb Arête | 14 ,16 ,8 | 110m |
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The classic climb of the valley. If you climb only one route at Mangatepopo,
it really ought to be this one. Start from the platform at very front toe of
the buttress. A better alternative to the last pitch may be to finish via one
of the routes on the Upper Tier [1].
[1] http://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mangatepopo/bomb-bay-cliff/upper-tier
Graeme Dingle, Noel Sissons, Colin Abbott, 1972
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6 | Wainui Route | 15 | 30m |
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Takes a line right of Bomb Arête, finishing at the same first pitch belay ledge.
Colin Abbott, OPC students, 1973
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7 | The Jolly Route | 18 |
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Start about 40m right of the buttress. This route climbs two overhangs, described by the first ascentionists as ‘two overgrown boulder problems’. Jam the first overhanging crack, then step right and repeat the process.
Stu Allan, Graeme Dingle, 1977
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8 | Power and Corruption | 21 | 8m |
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Effectively a harder direct start to the next route. About 100m right of the main buttress is another prominent nose of rock with a small recess at its base. Climb this and handjam strenuously around the roof to reach easier ground.
Grant Davidson, Greg Brosnan, 7 March 1987
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9 | Lies and Deceit | 19 | 30m |
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A good, varied climb, which tackles the buttress above Power and Corruption. The difficulties of that climb are skirted on the right. Climb the thin crack in the corner and move left onto a small ledge. Continue left along a sloping crack/ledge system to a bolt, and swing around onto the main face. The route then follows a series of cracks and rounded ledges to the top.
Grant Davidson, Steve Anderson, 1 February 1986
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Places
Type | Title | Link to edit content |
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Wall | Upper Tier (5 routes) |