Natural pro requiredThe first route to break through the impressive set of overhangs immediately
left of Bomb Arête. It was first attempted by Doug Wilson, who was unable to
break through the second band of overhangs on pitch two. Again, a hammer and
pitons are advisable.
- P1
- 15
- 45m
- Trad
Take the left-tending ramp that skirts the right edge of the first set of overhangs. Start at the bottom of the ramp in a mossy recess. Make a hard move out onto the ramp proper and climb this, following cracks and slabs, until an in-situ angle peg can be found. Belay.
- P2
- 18
- 20m
- Trad
The crux pitch. Although not technically hard, protection is not abundant. Traverse delicately left across grooves until you reach a clean white groove – the site of a large rockfall. Climb this groove then head back right and pull around some hanging flakes into a groove and grassy ledge directly above the belay. Climb the small bulge above on good – although mossy – holds, and continue to the large belay ledge.
- P3
- 12
- 45m
- Trad
Traverse left a couple of metres and climb easy ground for a rope-length to reach the top.