Upper Tier

(5 routes)

On the top third of the Bomb Bay Cliff, above and right of Bomb Arête, is another solid piece of rock with several good routes. To reach the base of the cliff, climb one of the routes described in the last section and then take the easy broken ground to belay on a ledge below and left of some slabs of rock.

Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
10 Plum Duff 15 30m
wire representing trad
At the left end of the slabs climb up the groove leading to a short chimney. Climb up the right wall of the chimney to easier ground above.
Graeme Dingle, Bob Lupton, March 1977
11 Ginger Crunch 19 30m
wire representing trad
This route climbs the obvious overhanging crack in the main headwall. From the belay traverse right across the bottom of the slabs until a finger crack is reached. Climb this to the base of the overhanging crack in the corner. The crack is climbed until it runs out and small ledges are used to pull over the top to easier ground.
Marty Beare, Grant Davidson, December 1979; rest eliminated by Grant Davidson, Bernard Christeller, January 1981
12 Racing Sardine 19 30m
wire representing trad
Start as for Ginger Crunch until below the final overhanging crack. From here traverse right following ledges until a difficult mantle has to be made onto a ledge. Climb more easily up and right over slabby rock to the top.
John McCallum, Graeme Dingle, 1979
13 The Bomb 16 30m
wire representing trad
An exposed finish to any of the routes on the Bomb Bay, though it is prone to seepage and should be left until a dry spell. From the second pitch of Bomb Arête climb up and right over easy ground, past some slabs, until a damp little recess is gained. The climb proper starts from this recess. From the recess gain another ledge (awkward) and from here step around a nose to a groove on the right. Climb this to where a large rock was dislodged on the first ascent (this is the ‘bomb’ that the cliff is named after). Finish up the left wall on good holds.
Graeme Dingle, Noel Sissons, Colin Abbott, 1972
14 Dangerous Acquaintances  20 25m
wire representing trad
From the damp recess on The Bomb, climb directly through the right-hand of two overhanging grooves above the belay. When the angle eases off work left to finish up The Bomb.
Chris Morris, Robin Cooper, 20 January 1985