Updated 1 December 2025, by JP.
Whanganui Bay is now closed to climbers. Access dates for 2026 are to be confirmed. To register and for access conditions visit https://whanganuibay.acat.org.nz/.
Whanganui Bay is now closed to climbers. Access dates for 2026 are to be confirmed. To register and for access conditions visit https://whanganuibay.acat.org.nz/.
The crack just to the right of Fantail. Start as for Fantail. At the jumble of blocks, climb the right crack using hands, fists and whatever else you can stuff into it. At the bulge, the crack narrows to fingers. Over the bulge, an old piton shows the way left to the upper pitch of Fantail or you can carry on up the increasingly wide crack. Another option is to traverse right on to Mischmasch and finish up that (Scary Masch 24ish, 40m).