Whekenui | ClimbNZ

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Although Whekenui describes the whole lakeside cliff, these stunning lines are on the highest section, including the outside of Tibia Pinnacle.

Rights credit

Tom Hoyle/NZAC

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Routes

Reference	Title	Grade	Length	Pro	Quality
27	27I’ve Wept With Jim Collins Too, 17	17	11m	2	0
P1 17 11m 2 Well, he was exonerated in 2011. The wall to the left of the Surrogate arête.
28	28Surrogate, 18	18	12m	2	1.02
P1 18 12m 2 A deservedly popular jaunt up the square arête using generous pockets.
	Shocking Blue, 24	24	27m	4	0
P1 22 12m 4 The first of the colours. Needs a rebolt. Starts from the ledge at the top of Surrogate and keeps just left of the arête. P2 24 15m 4 From the anchor at the top of Champagne P1, Rough Red, Shocking Blue P1 and Progressive Green, follow the ring bolts up and onto the proud arete. Punchy moves lead to an exit slab with magnificent views of the lake.
29	29Progressive Green, 21	21	16m	6	2.01
P1 21 16m 6 A second pitch to Surrogate which charges up the bulge above the belay and continues on the wall and arête. Can be done as one long pitch with a 60m rope.
30	30Fantail, 17	17	25m		1.02
P1 17 25m Trad Climb the vegetated groove (or better still climb the start of Mischmasch/Jabberwocky) then the blocky corner to gain a slopey ledge. Layback or jam the corner crack and belay as for Progressive Green or Shocking Blue (it might be easiest for the belayer to second the pitch). There is a second pitch, which is dirtier and more vegetated. Better than Graeme’s routes at Titahi Bay!
31	31Scary Monsters, 19	19	20m		0
P1 19 20m Trad The crack just to the right of Fantail. Start as for Fantail. At the jumble of blocks, climb the right crack using hands, fists and whatever else you can stuff into it. At the bulge, the crack narrows to fingers. Over the bulge, an old piton shows the way left to the upper pitch of Fantail or you can carry on up the increasingly wide crack. Another option is to traverse right on to Mischmasch and finish up that (Scary Masch 24ish, 40m).
	Mischmasch, 26	26	45m	12	3
P1 26 45m 12 Climb the mighty pillar all the way, in one glorious push. Use the Jabberwocky P1 belay to get off again.
32	32The Jabberwocky, 23	23	45m	7	3
P1 23 20m 6 Originally a staunch two pitch climb, this exciting outing can be done as one monster pitch. Start up the slab as for Mischmasch, through some brittle rock and then into the lower crux to gain the crack/slab/corner feature to the right of arête. P2 23 25m 7 Trad Climb steep ground above the belay, watching the runout (a wire can be used to tone things down a bit). Carry on up the arête to the ledge and finish as for Mischmasch up the cruxy block.
33	33Drive In Bank, 25	25	27m	12	3
P1 25 27m 12 A stupendous route often called the best route on ignimbrite. Great climbing in a stunning position, all you need to do is get there. To access the belay you can either a) climb the choss from the bottom (not recommended), or b) access the top of the pinnacle by taking the track past and behind the Wet Dreams Wall and abseil in to the belay position (only slightly less scary than a!).
34	34Fawlty Towers, 24	24	40m	4	1.02
P1 23 20m 4 Trad Great climbing up on the pinnacle itself, if you survive the choss at the bottom. Squirm across the soft overhang, then head right. P2 24 20m 4 Trad Climb up and left to the outrageous offwidth, protected by a mixture of gear, bolts and body parts.
35	35Zen, 23	23	22m	8	3
P1 23 22m 8 A worthy companion route to Drive In Bank. Climb the first pitch of Fawlty Towers or rap in to belay on right-hand side of Tibia pinnacle. Follow the ever-steepening wall to glory.
36	36Tibia, 16	16	40m		0
The first climb at Whanganui Bay chimneyed up behind the pinnacle. P1 16 40m Trad

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