Updated 1 December 2025, by JP.
Whanganui Bay is now closed to climbers. Access dates for 2026 are to be confirmed. To register and for access conditions visit https://whanganuibay.acat.org.nz/.
Whanganui Bay is now closed to climbers. Access dates for 2026 are to be confirmed. To register and for access conditions visit https://whanganuibay.acat.org.nz/.
The first pitch of this route has been lost to the jungle. However, the second pitch is excellent. From the hanging belay, follow a series of strange knobs and ribs to a good rest at the base of the hanging arête. Charge diagonally right through the crux, swing around onto the right side of the arête and try not to pump out on the final headwall.