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Pacifica Wall

Type
Part of

Mangakara offers a unique climbing experience, shrouded in bush and shadows. Most of the Pacifica Wall routes are 'rap-in, climb-out' – a 60m rope is essential. However, some of the routes can be accessed from the old road track.

Image
Rights credit
Tom Hoyle/NZAC
Access

For Pacifica routes, walk from the upper carpark along the road towards the lake. As it begins its descent to Whanganui, and at the apex of the right-hand corner, a path leads through bush to a clearing at the top of the wall. For Dance of the Red Corpuscles and Ignition, these can be access from the old road track - just follow the fixed ropes in the corner.

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Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Operations
 Dance Of The Red Corpuscles, 26 26 12m
2.01

  • P1
  • 26
  • 12m
  • Trad

About 15m left of the start of Ignition, across a steep bank, you'll find this aesthetic flake to finger crack. You'll need big gear and small gear. Double bolt anchor.


1 1The Lost Art of Keeping a Secret, 28 28 25m 9
2.01

  • P1
  • 28
  • 25m
  • 9

Access from the Re-Ignition top anchor. Starts from a sloping belay ledge close to the bush. Head up easy ground to a good layback just above the first bolt. Traverse left to a sidepull feature then slap and tickle your way up the middle of the bulging wall to a good stance at the top of a flake. After the pump has eased, charge up the short but surprisingly tricky arête to the top.


2 2Ignition, 20 20 20m 6
1.02

  • P1
  • 20
  • 20m
  • 6

After Re-Ignition was bolted and climbed, Kristen decided it was so good that it needed another pitch, so he added one underneath it! It is possible to access the start of this route from the old road. A better idea is to abseil in from the Re-Ignition belay ledge. After a damp start, the route steadily improves. If you’re feeling game, go for the monster link into Re-Ignition.


 Centre Spread, 24 24 30m 3
1.02

  • P1
  • 24
  • 30m
  • 3
  • Trad

A voyage up the corner/groove that leads directly to a large ledge with a big tree. Take wires and cams. Worth a clean and a rebolt. Access is from the bottom via the fixed rope (which will need replacing) and scrambling rightwards from the start of Ignition through the vertical fernery. Would make a great bottom pitch to the The Man on the Clapham Omnibus!


3 3Re-Ignition, 23 23 25m 7
2.01

  • P1
  • 23
  • 25m
  • 7

The route that reignited development in the gorge, after a hiatus of ten years or so. From the Lost Art belay ledge, blast up the featured wall to a good rest just below the lip. Fire up for some wild moves over the bulge, with nothing but air beneath your feet.


4 4Pacifica, 25 25 18m 5
2.01

  • P1
  • 25
  • 18m
  • 5

The second pitch of a visionary route established by Kester Brown in 2001. The first pitch (21) is horribly over-grown. Rap in to the ledge level with the third bolt on Re-Ignition. Climb the overhanging recess feature to a final move crux. The anchor is below the lip of the gorge, so topping out is not an option. You can either rap to the ground and walk out or climb Re-Ignition or Rip & Run to escape.


5 5Rip & Run, 26 26 28m 10
0

  • P1
  • 26
  • 28m
  • 10

Start up steep juggy ground to a good rest below the red wall/corner. Climb the left-facing corner with some difficulty. At the top of the corner, the angle eases until a series of bulges leads to the final headwall. Long and varied, with some soft rock.


6 6The Man on the Clapham Omnibus, 24 24 28m 10
3

  • P1
  • 24
  • 28m
  • 10

A stunning line that wanders up the central part of the cliff, tackling walls, arêtes, overhangs and slabs. Long arms and a couple of longer ‘draws might be useful.


7 7The Hit Parade, 23 23 18m 8
0

  • P1
  • 23
  • 18m
  • 8

From the belay ledge, climb the wall and arête. You’ll need to bust out the crux on the headwall if you want to get out alive! Exit by scrambling up the bolted vertical garden.


8 8The Wire, 26 26 12m 5
0

  • P1
  • 26
  • 12m
  • 5

Ten metres across from the ledge (looking down the gorge) you’ll see this featured, gently overhanging arête. Rap off the top or diagonally from the ledge. Sequence is everything here, a good one will ensure you cruise to victory. Pre-clip the first bolt and put a long ‘draw on the last bolt if rapping in.


9 9Propaganda, 26 26 20m 9
3

  • P1
  • 26
  • 20m
  • 9

An alternative to Propagation. As for that route but stay on the left side of the hanging arête all the way to the anchor. A little bit technical, a little bit pumpy, a little bit brilliant.


10 10Propagation, 24 24 20m 9
3

  • P1
  • 24
  • 20m
  • 9

The first pitch of this route has been lost to the jungle. However, the second pitch is excellent. From the hanging belay, follow a series of strange knobs and ribs to a good rest at the base of the hanging arête. Charge diagonally right through the crux, swing around onto the right side of the arête and try not to pump out on the final headwall.


11 11The Re-Up, 21 21 20m 8
3

  • P1
  • 21
  • 20m
  • 8

An alternative start to Propagation. From the belay, follow the featured wall up and right, staying right of the thin seam until the bolts lead you left to join the final few metres of Propagation. Great rock, great holds and a great warm-up for the other routes on this wall.


12 12The Bunk Project 18m 7
0

  • P1
  • 18m
  • 7

The left of two excellent routes on this aesthetic undercut wall. Access is from the same track as for the Pacifica wall. At the entrance to that track, turn left immediately and follow a vague track south through the bush then west down an obvious drainage line. Both routes start from the same belay in a small alcove feature, ~18m abseil down at the base of an obvious pillar. From the belay, climb up to the peapod feature. Above this, increasingly difficult moves build to a staunch crux just below the lip. Closed project.


13 13New Day Co-Op, 23 23 18m 6
1.02

  • P1
  • 23
  • 18m
  • 6

An alternative finish to The Bunk. From the belay, follow crisp edges in the diagonal seam rightwards to access the pocketed right side of the wall.


 Treebeard, 24 24 30m
0

On the opposite side of the gorge from the Pacifica wall, a layback corner crack may (or may not) be worth seeking out, cleaning and climbing.


  • P1
  • 24
  • 30m
  • Trad

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UUID
 
bf3f0128-3527-4e2c-b914-906131d81df4