Warwick Castle is the distinctive crescent shaped formation on the east proﬁle of the mountain as seen from New Plymouth. Most climbs are on the south face, which can mean a cool belay even on a ﬁne sunny day.
This crag gives both excellent short routes at moderate grades as well as some of the best long routes on the mountain.
Most of the cracks on Warwick's Castle are filled with vegetation. If you want to climb any of them you'll need to clean them. It's recommended to prepare your climb on abseil before leading it. Climbing is best after a dry period.
The traverse of Warwicks Castle provides a fine, interesting winter scramble with the top end offering mixed climbing at times. The South Face has a few good lines in the mid section where there is more moss.
Many of the larger cracks or mossy sections will freeze providing a winter line, the overall quality will generally be dependent on prevailing conditions and how keen the climbers are to tackle the new coating after a storm clears.
It is about 30 minutes walk from Tahurangi Lodge, or about 1 1/4 hr up from the Stratford Plateau.
The best access is from the Stratford Plateau/Manganui Skifield. Follow the Round the Mountain Track under and past Warwick's Castle, follow a spur up on the northern side to arrive the top of the crag, between Warwick's and Lion Rock.
To descend either abseil off, or walk along the spine of the ridge towards Lion Rock. The spine or arête of the ridge is considered a good scramble and not to be underestimated. You may desire the protection of a rope at certain places. There are two naked anchor bolts at the top of BB Char.
|1||This One’s a Twenty-Two Too Chris||16||8m|
|9||The Way of The Orange||17||18m|
|11||Menage a Trois||18||20m|
|17.5||Last Night on Earth||26||20m||8|
|22||Small Nuts Have Their Uses||18||40m|
|26||Feat Of Clay||17||40m|
|29||Ethics, That’s Near London Isn’t It?||18||39m|
|30||Riders of the Purple Wave||19||40m|