Sunnyside Wall

(8 routes)

This wall runs the entire length of the north face of Warwick Castle and has several climbs on its lower end with only one at the top. Most are shorter routes ending on large mossy ledges.
At the very bottom end of Warwick Castle approximately 10m to the right of a small but prominent arête the track passes a wide square shaped groove.

Warwick Castle is the distinctive crescent shaped formation on the east profile of the mountain as seen from New Plymouth. Most climbs are on the south face, which can mean a cool belay even on a fine sunny day.
This crag gives both excellent short routes at moderate grades as well as some of the best long routes on the mountain. There is a good weekend’s climbing on Warwick Castle alone.


It is about 30 minutes walk from Tahurangi Lodge, or about 1 hr up from the Stratford Plateau.

To descend either abseil off, or walk along the spine of the ridge towards Lion Rock. The spine or arête of the ridge is considered a good scramble and not to be underestimated. You may desire the protection of a rope at certain places.

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Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
1 Typhoon 19 10m
wire representing trad
The prominent arête.
Kevin Conaglen, Dave Bolger, 10/01/93.
2 Poseidon 12 10m
wire representing trad
Climb the crack right of Typhoon.
Kevin Conaglen (solo), 20/12/92.
3 Geras 16 10m
wire representing trad
Climb the right-hand crack over the block and exit left.
Kevin Conaglen, Greg Larkin, 10/01/93.
4 Nemesis 12 10m
wire representing trad
The right facing corner in the wide square shaped groove.
Kevin Conaglen.
5 Flashirt 16 10m
wire representing trad
Left facing corner to the right of Nemesis.
Ross Eden, Kevin Conaglen, 14/12/97.
England Layback 16 7m
wire representing trad
Has a layback at the top
Kevin Conaglen, Gareth Sharp, 20/11/93.
Meko 17 7m
wire representing trad
Climb overhang to offwidth crack
Kevin Conaglen, Ross Hoffman, 28/11/93.
6 Triceratops Alec 14 30m
wire representing trad
Near the upper end of Warwick Castle. Directly opposite This One’ s a Twenty Two Too Chris. Start at the bottom of a sharp buttress and move up over the large steps to the top.
Kevin Conaglen, Dave Bolger.