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Teds Alley

Topo ref

  • P1
  • Alpine (Mt Cook) 2

Directly under the cliffs of East Ridge, Teds Alley narrows dramatically and terminates in a short near-vertical step at 2180m. Early winter is the best time to climb when the crux has received a suitable coating of ice. Late winter when the step is filled in with snow drifts it can provide the more adventurous skier an exhilarating descent. Travel south from Tahurangi Lodge on a rising traverse commencing immediately above the Around the Mountain Circuit to Organ Pipes Valley. Climb the Organ Pipes Valley adjacent to the Eiger Wall taking the left hand exit gully and traverse south under the East Face and East Ridge at 2000m. Continue up and south into the steepening Teds Alley and stay close in under the bluff. At the crux a sheltered belay stance can be found on either side of the gut. An excellent 1-2 pitch route immediately under the bluffs gives access to the easier upper slopes and the crater rim at 2460m. Descent: Via the North Ridge route.

Eden, Ross. Taranaki Mount Egmont; A guide for climbers. NZAC, 2003.