North Ridge

Type: 
Alpine
Reference: 
3.06
Pitch(es): 
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
11-0mNo
 

The North Ridge route is the most travelled and best-marked route to the summit. Poles at regular intervals mark the track above the numerous wooden steps exiting Hongis Valley. The NZ Mountain Safety Council has produced a video on the route for summer conditions which can be found here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sg5BAkJwvMg

From Tahurangi Lodge at 1520m follow Hongis Valley and steps to gain North Ridge at 1700m. Continue up the ridge and over a small rocky outcrop. Follow the poles to a large rock to the northeastern side of the ridge. Drinking Rock at 1900m was once much larger but may have been broken by a rock-fall prior to 1949.
Some snow poles and a worn zig-zag track generally mark the route above Drinking Rock to the Lizard Ridge (2200m). In summer climb the Lizard to Summer Entrance and the crater (2450m). In winter the Lizard can develop hard ice and the Summer Entrance becomes nearly impassable. An alternative finish is to cross into Crater Valley at approximately 2300m and follow the valley into the crater.
Continue into the crater and then climb west to the high point at 2518m.
Alternatively start from North Egmont via the Holly Hut Track adjacent to Camphouse and pass by Ambury Monument after 50m. Continue up steps that lead to the base of the ‘Razorback’ ridge above Tahurangi Trig station at 1180m. Follow a well defined but, not maintained, steep track on top of the ridge to the Around the Mountain Circuit junction at 1480m.
Continue directly up the ridge and traverse east onto moss slopes and gain the base of North Ridge at approx 1750m. Ascend the ridge and follow the poled route as above.
Descent: Same as described above.
Times: North Egmont – Tahurangi Lodge 1hr, 15min. Tahurangi Lodge – Drinking Rock 1hr. Drinking Rock – Lizard 45min. Lizard – Summit 1 hr, 30min. Total: 4hr, 30min.

Grade: 
1-
Quality: 
0
Gone: 
0
Length: 
0m
Bolts: 
0
Natural pro: 
0
Attribution: 
Eden, Ross. Taranaki Mount Egmont; A guide for climbers. NZAC, 2003.
UUID: 
422ceefb-534a-499f-9703-1f0632b1ca9d