Teds Alley

Type: 
Alpine
Reference: 
2.03
Pitch(es): 
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
120mNo
 

Directly under the cliffs of East Ridge, Teds Alley narrows dramatically and terminates in a short steep step at 2180m. Early winter is the best time to climb when the crux has received a suitable coating of ice. Late winter when the step is filled in with snow drifts it can provide the more adventurous skier an exhilarating descent.
From Manganui Lodge follow the T-bar and then the rope tow passing the south side of the Policeman 1876m. Climb into the steepening Teds Alley and stay close in under the bluff. At the crux a sheltered belay stance can be found on either side of the gut. An excellent 1–2 pitch route immediately under the bluffs gives access to the easier upper slopes and the crater rim at 2460m.
Descent: Either down the easier North Ridge route or more directly: climb the chimney from the crater and descend directly below, moving south-east across the East Face, returning to East Ridge below the crux. Cross the ridge above the Policeman, 1876m, to the flanks above the ski field and descend slopes to the ski-field.

Grade: 
2
Quality: 
0
Gone: 
0
Length: 
0m
Bolts: 
0
Natural pro: 
0
UUID: 
db381412-e4af-4887-8cfb-d6301969b0e8