Skip to main content

East Face – Pleasant Valley

Grade
1+
Quality
0
Topo ref
2.05

  • P1
  • Alpine (Mt Cook) 1+

East Ridge is an excellent summer or winter route and is easily discernible from State Highway 3. In summer it offers good rock underfoot and in winter excellent ice. From Manganui Lodge follow the T-bar and then the rope tow. In winter ascend to the left of the Policeman (1876m), to the base of East Ridge. In summer, from near the top of the rope tow, traverse north and ascend to the right of the Policeman to gain East Ridge. Once on the ridge, follow the crest with increasing exposure to a change in grade at approximately 2200m. On a rising traverse head north from East Ridge arête to gain a steep scoop after approximately 120m and climb directly up Pleasant Valley to the chimney at the crater rim (2480m). Descent: Either down the easier North Ridge route or more directly; climb the chimney from the Crater and descend directly below, moving south-east across the East Face, returning to East Ridge below the crux. Cross the ridge above the Policeman (1876m), to the flanks above the skifield and descend slopes to the ski-field. The name was given by John Jordan and Ted Thomson after a mid 1960s winter ascent of the route.


Comments
UUID
 
392e464e-26e4-4ff3-afec-6c159a515673