Starts as an OW and takes a BD 5 +-4 before it narrows into a sustained hand crack. When the crack tapers out, there are glorious jugs which take you to the DBA (with titanium horns). Aim to the right of the split bolder and small Pohutakawa tree on the horizon to reach the anchor ledge. Gear: Ideally cams BD size 0.75-5 One of each is fine but an extra 1 is useful if you don’t want to run out the jugs on the upper 1/3 of the climb.
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Steep hand crack with a DBA
Rick McGregor, Tony Martyr, Robbie McBirney 1974