Skip to main content

Donne Face

Type
Face
Part of
Mt Revelation

The head of the Donne Valley is a massive wall stretching between the peaks of Karetai and Revelation. All the routes are long and committing. Descents from the face are lengthy. Turners Eyrie is a good initial destination. Parties have opted to traverse Underwood, descending the South Ridge, but this is difficult and time consuming. Dropping down the Taoka Ice-fall may be possible when in condition, otherwise exit using one of the routes out of the Central Darrans. Traversing Revelation into the Korako Glacier and thence to Moraine Creek is another possibility.

Aspect
West
Approach

There is a reasonable 3–4 person bivvy rock in scrubby bush at the head of the Donne River, at about CB09 061 401.

Add Place Add Route

Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Alert Operations
1 1The Big Easy, IV,22 IV,22 600m
1.02

Start from between the two snow patches at the bottom of the face. A
near-continuous crack line (fingers to off-width) on the left side of the
face, where the best rock is. Take a rising traverse left for a couple of
pitches, then straight up. The crux is a short, steep wall on pitch 5.
Fourteen pitches in all. Exit was via the South Ridge of Karetai to Turners
Eyrie.

  • P1
  • 22
  • Alpine (Commitment) IV
  • 600m
  • Trad
2 2Original Route
0

From the flats at the head of the valley take some ledges left to the middle
section of the face where a rope may be required for short steps, then
continue up through the obvious corner, finishing left of the summit. The
upper third breaks into easy ledges. The party accessed the route from
Moraine Creek via Darran Pass, spent a day or so on the wall, and returned to
Moraine Creek via the Korako ledges.
3 3Whiston Anderson Roxburgh
0

Climb steep grassy gullies in the lower third of the face, traversing left to
ledges. Tend right then straight up the middle of the face directly in line
with the summit. Pitch after pitch of great climbing on clean rock. On the
last third of the face tend right on increasingly easier ground, finishing
just right of the summit.
Comments
Attribution
Craig Jefferies
UUID
 
eed6e20b-0805-4543-8e5d-5390e04afd5b