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Upper Cirque Wall

Type
Face
Part of
Mt Crosscut

This area has a big wall feel to it, with the routes being long and sustained.

Aspect
South East
Approach

In winter access is frighteningly simple. Walk down the road to Bakehouse Creek and cross the river. The crossing can be unpleasant in the dark; stripped to the waist and watch for slippery boulders. Good luck. Once on the other side, travel is straightforward (if your legs aren’t too numb)on the true right of the valley. Travel times vary, depending on how much snow is around but allow more than what you’d think, at least four hours if heading into the upper cirque.
To access the Upper Cirque, climb the gully at the true left-hand end of the Lower Cirque Wall. It is steepish but okay to solo. Beware; this is a major avalanche path. Only attempt it during times of low hazard. The small glacier in the Upper Cirque has been slowly wasting away. It has become quite broken and falling serac ice may be another hazard to negotiate.

Accessed from
Cirque Creek
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Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Alert Operations
11 11White Knight, V,WI4 V,WI4 0m
0
  • P1
  • Alpine (Commitment) V
  • Water Ice WI4

From the upper cirque terrace directly beneath the Middle Peak of Crosscut, climb up two pitches then tend left up a ramp for six pitches. Leave the ramp and climb a gully for five pitches to the lowest notch on the left of the Middle Peak. The best climbing is in the lower pitches.
 Tramadol Dreams, V,5,WI4 V,5,WI4 400m
0

Between White Knight and Heart of Gold. Up to Cyclops Cave, then angle left
to hanging couloir.

  • P1
  • Alpine (Commitment) V
  • Alpine (Technical) 5
  • Water Ice WI4
  • 400m
  • Trad
12 12Heart of Gold, VI,WI5 VI,WI5 650m
0
  • P1
  • Alpine (Commitment) VI
  • Water Ice WI5
  • 650m

Starts from the upper terrace in Cirque Creek, climb steep ice in a corner staying close to the rock on the right-hand side. Crux at ¾ height. The first half of the route was climbed on mainly rock protection with the occasional ‘psychological’ ice screw. 650m to the ridge of Crosscut.
13 13Hotel Caribbean, VI,WI5 VI,WI5 700m
0
  • P1
  • Alpine (Commitment) VI
  • Water Ice WI5
  • 700m

Fifteen pitches of steep ice with the lower pitches being quite sustained.
RI RIReunion Invernal, WI4 WI4
0
  • P1
  • Water Ice WI4

A classic route with moderate
difficulties.The access is easier and
shorter than the neighbouring routes
on the upper tier.
Start at the top end of the Cirque Creek
basin. Reach the waterfall pitches via
easy snow slopes, avoid tricky ice
covered rock slabs. Climb the waterfall
and follow a hidden gully to its end.
First 75° ice then 50° snow.
Climb the crux in 3 steep pitches (ice
up to 80°). Vertical snow can make
moves difficult. The last few meters
can be thin on rock slabs. Pass an
overhang on the right and enter a
ramp. Follow the ramp to the Crosscut
Ridge. Snow up to 60° with ice bulges.
650m to the ridge.
A strong team can climb the line in a
long day from Homer hut.
ACCESS: Approx 3h from the road.
DESCENT: Rap off the route. Some fixed
rap stations were left in the top part
of the route during the first ascent.
Abalacov’s were used where it was
possible.
GEAR: Short ice screws, full rock rack
including pitons.

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Attribution
Craig Jeffferies, Allen Uren, Matthias.Kerkmann
UUID
 
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