South East Ridge

Several parties attempted to climb the mountain from Lower Ōtoko Pass before it was completed in 1962. Note that early accounts describe this as the North East Ridge. A broad shelf leads across the east face until crevasses force the route up onto the summit pyramid. A large gendarme at about 2500m, which deterred several parties, is turned on the Marks Flat side to reach the east peak. A difficult, pinnacled ridge leading to the summit requires down climbing on tension at a couple of points to reach the final sharp cheval ridge. Plenty of exposure!