Reay Col

From Tasman valley: Route 5.132 on topo, grade II, 2. Access to the Reay valley is currently straightforward (February 2015). Walk up the Tasman Glacier then ascend a prominent, rightwards-leaning moraine ledge on the true right of the valley entrance (the true left looks impenetrable). Once in the valley, sidle upwards on the true right to the confluence of the Reay and Walpole Streams where small campsites among snowgrass can be found.
Continue sidling on scree on the north side of the valley, then climb up the Reay Glacier. The final slope to the col may consist of steep loose scree in late summer.
To descend to the Murchison, drop north-eastwards down the Lecky Glacier until about 2250m, then turn right to descend south-eastwards, eventually down through bluffs, scree, and snowgrass, to reach the valley floor near Onslow Hut.

From Murchison valley: Route 6.06 on topo, grade II, 2. Ascend just behind Onslow Hut, up through scrub then snowgrass slopes and bluffs to the Lecky Glacier. There may be an option that avoids the worst of the scrub by following the Onslow outlet stream up to 1220m and then climbing a sloping shelf back to the south, but this hasn’t been investigated.