9P | 250m | 24 | 80% bolted
Tunnel Vision opens the Portal Wall with nine pitches rising in difficulty and exposure – not to mention a 30 min approach, dips in the Infinity Pools and link-ups with the Moir classics.
Equipped by: Owyn Aitken, Jack Evans, David Macdonald, Ben Mitchell, Reon Morrison (+ others!)
Established with support from the NZAC Bolting Fund
Hazards:
The Infinity Pools and Upper Basin are exposed to glide avalanches, especially in the early season. The route itself is relatively protected.
Aspect:
NW facing with sun from 10:30-19:00. After a good rain, allow half a day for the rock to dry.
Gear:
- 1x 60m rope
- 12 QDs including 4 extenders
- Cams 0.2 – 2 (BD sizing)
- Wires small – medium (offsets handy)
- Togs & towel
Parking:
From the Milford side of the tunnel, drive 50m further and park at the first bay on the true right. Stow anything the kea militia might find interesting.
Access:
The chatty tunnel attendants sometimes hang about in a yellow Milford car. They assure us the "Do Not Enter" signs are purely a liability measure - but do say hello anyway.
Approach:
30 minutes of danger walking and scrambling. This would be a good place to have a tumble.
Edge past the tunnel entrance and sidle to the Infinity Pool. Weave up the true right of the cascade and cross at the Upper Infinity Pool. Climb the slabby rib (~15m), then follow cairns up a rightwards line.
Keep an eye out for a leftwards scramble onto David’s Massive Gorgeous Belay Ledge. The final section (~30m) is roughly grade 8 – abseil on descent.
Descent:
1x 60m rope: nine abseils down the climbing line. Most abseils nudge 30m – knot your ends.
2x 60m ropes: five abseils, linking pitches 8+7, 6+5, 4+3 and 2+1.
P1 → P4 make an ideal apprenticeship to multi-pitching in the Darrans
- P1
- 16
- 30m
- 6
- Trad
New Bendeavours
Saunter up the slab and over a thoughtful bulge.
Trad: 0.5 + 0.75 cams
- P2
- 17
- 30m
- 6
- Trad
Jack Attack
Trend left up the slab to the white roof, then tiptoe across the hanging slab.
Trad: full rack
- P3
- 19
- 32m
- 7
- Trad
The Wolverine
Angle left past the cam placement and latch onto the wolverine scar dyke. Claw to the lip and pad up the slab.
Trad: 0.4 cam
- P4
- 18
- 30m
- 8
- Trad
Mantlemania
A shallow groove leads to slanting bulges and engaging mantles. Belay at the double-hanger ledge, or continue 5m to the abseil chains (recommended for next pitch).
Trad: 0.3-0.5 cams
- P5
- 22
- 30m
- 8
- Trad
Taste of Babylon
Ramble to the white birthmark to clip the camo-bolt (cam above), then squeeze onto the face on desperate underclings. Finish on easy ground.
Trad: 0.75 + 1 cam
- P6
- 19
- 30m
- 6
- Trad
Slice of Heaven
Follow the glorious dyke, then up the face.
Trad: full rack
- P7
- 22
- 25m
- 7
- Trad
Reon's Runout (Retro-Bolted)
Pull up the prominent flake to gain the slab. Grab your belayer's attention, then dispatch the abrupt face with a leftwards mantle. Cut right to the anchor.
Trad: wires
- P8
- 24
- 30m
- 10
- Trad
The Great Roof
Up the techy slab, whoompf through the roof, then devious moves up and rightwards. Break left to a lofty belay.
Trad: full rack
- P9
- 24
- 30m
- 8
- Trad
The Headwall
Set forth on the sustained headwall, enjoying the gathering air beneath your feet. Commit to a wild move at the last bolt, reserving a 0.4 cam for the closing mantle.
Trad: full rack
- P10
- 4
- 15m
- 1
Top out: a short scramble to a belay on friendlier ground. 1 min to fresh water, 5 mins to a grassy knoll with panoramic views, 15 mins further to Moir’s Sit Start.