Natural pro requiredThe route climbs the first pitch and a half of an old project from Kester Brown and Danny Wood. It then follows a nice line of steep face and seam climbing that leads to a classic darrans slab. The route was established ground up on mixed protection over two days.
Take a single rack #0.2-3, 14 draws, or alternatively could be climbed at 22/A2 (needs a double rack and bat hook).
Rap the route to descend, possible with a single 70m rope. Crux pitch requires back clipping due to steepness.
- P1
- 17
- Alpine (Commitment) III
- 30m
- Trad
Climb the obvious pillar to a belay stance above.
- P2
- 22
- 35m
- 5
- Trad
Follow the weakness up the slab passing 5 bolts. A technical section leads to big flakes and a belay.
- P3
- 27
- 35m
- 9
- Trad
Straight up from belay past a bolt to a hard sequence protected by good gear. Up to a slab and left to a steep bulge. Good gear protects the crux. After resting in the pod follow bolts and the seam out right to a stance.
- P4
- 24
- 35m
- 12
- Trad
Place some cams in the crack and rock onto slab. Classic Darrans slab climbing up the black face. Belay in easy groove.
- P5
- 16
- 15m
- 2
- Trad
Here the route joins El Braveth for some easy climbing to a single ring
