North Face

First climbed at A3/17 by Barry Biggs and Reg Marron, then in 2000 freed at grade 20 as Sewing of the Seam by Keith Riley and Rob Wigley. Follow the seam which forms a left-to-right diagonal between the two bolted routes. Gear is sparse at times, but the crux is well protected. Pitons were used during both recorded ascents.

A steep and sustained route left of the main overhangs, climbing the obvious dyke-like feature. The route name is an acronym made from the
surname initials of all of the people who contributed to the route’s development. Take a standard rack plus doubles of 0.5 and 3 cams.
The route can be abseiled with a single 60m rope using independent abseil anchors in the lower parts, as long as you don’t do the final pitch.

The route climbs the first pitch and a half of an old project from Kester Brown and Danny Wood. It then follows a nice line of steep face and seam climbing that leads to a classic darrans slab. The route was established ground up on mixed protection over two days.
Take a single rack #0.2-3, 14 draws, or alternatively could be climbed at 22/A2 (needs a double rack and bat hook).
Rap the route to descend, possible with a single 70m rope. Crux pitch requires back clipping due to steepness.

“Hairier than Murray’s back. The rock is coarser than Cradock. Fantastic route guys and great rigging job" – Homer Hut book. A six-pitch sport route on immaculate rock. Take 15 quickdraws and belays, and two 60m ropes. Can be climbed at grade 22 A0 if you pull through the grade 24 & 25 crux moves on pitches three and four.

The route starts on the northern slopes of the buttress, gaining the crest after 100m. A real adventure through a series of steep cracks, after
you’ve negotiated the grass lower down. It is possible to climb the entire buttress from the floor of the Cleddau. Bring your elite route finding skills.

In winter, the ridge from Homer Saddle can almost border on being alpine enough to require a rope. An exposed traverse under Moirs Mate leads to good bivvy sites. Cross a narrow band under the Mates Little Brother then out across the slopes running down from the upper cirque to the buttress. Conditions on the bottom half of the buttress tend to be similar to summer with grassy sections leading up to a slab. Traverse down and into a gully on the edge of the West Face. From here the route continues up a series of iced up grooves. Steep rock with ice runnels and good rock pro.
The descent via the southern edge of the West Face is straightforward. The original ascent was a three day round trip.