East Face

Climb the ridge immediately north of the Haast Glacier, overcoming a final large bump to reach
the Upper Kaufmann Glacier. From here the route heads up the snowface onto the South Ridge.

Climbs the left ‘fang’ of ice on the right side of
east face: a 4-pitch waterfall in the centre of the headwall. Mostly 70 degree ice with some vertical
steps. The first ascensionists accessed the routeby climbing to the lower south ridge from the Fox Névé (see Route 11.71) then abseiling and traversing to the base of the route.

Climbs the right hand ‘ice fang,’ which is slightly easier than White Steel. First ascentionists accessed as for White Steel.

This consists of a 400m buttress of relatively looserock, leading to the north peak. The spur has been gained by two routes: (i) via a rock and scree rib separating the two arms of the Kaufmann Glacier, and (ii) up scree and rock south of the Forrest RossGlacier to a small snow basin.
(i) D C Ball, Bob Cunninghame, Jan 1960
(ii) Tom Fyfe, Malcolm Ross, Feb 1897

As for the North East Face (5.06).

These 350m high routes meet the Main Dividesome distance north of Haidinger’s north
summit. Climb scree slopes and a rotten rockridge onto Emas Dome, then drop onto the Forrest-Ross Glacier Névé. Cross the névé to gain either the ridge or the face then climb to the prominent point on the Main Divide.