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Dixon Pk

Type
Altitude
3004m
Part of

Previously known as Mt Dixon. The actual Mt Dixon (1556m) is north of the Taramakau River, near Arthur's Pass.

Lat/lon
-43.56365353,170.1812771, NZ Topo Map
Accessed from
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Places

Type Name Alert
Face West Face

Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Alert Operations
 South Ridge, 3- 3- 0m
1.02

  • P1
  • Alpine (Mt Cook) 3-

Gain the ridge either via a steep 150m slope from the Grand Plateau or via the névé between Syme Ridge and Mt Dixon. Then head up a rock buttress and follow the winding arête to the summit.


 South East Face, 3- 3- 0m
0

  • P1
  • Alpine (Mt Cook) 3-

From the Grand Plateau turn the major icecliff on the left and head up. The route usually finishes high on the South Ridge. A somewhat dangerous climb.


 East Ridge, 2+ 2+ 0m
0

  • P1
  • Alpine (Mt Cook) 2+

Either follow the narrow broken ridge from Glacier Dome or climb up a narrow 80m gully from the Grand Plateau just beside the large icecliff. Then follow up easy slopes to the summit. The best descent route.


 From Pioneer Pass, 2+ 2+ 0m
0

  • P1
  • Alpine (Mt Cook) 2+

From Pioneer Pass, climb up a snow gully onto the Haast-Dixon Ridge.


S43°34.157’ E170°11.205’ S43°34.157’ E170°11.205’Give It 80, 4- 4- 0m
2.01

On right of 2+ East Ridge route. Follow rock-band with left traverses to a
near-vertical 55m ice & rock gully. This crux pitch is committing and
difficult to down-climb, so rest calves midway on rock jutting out on left.
Set belay high to give leader enough rope as it top-outs onto an icy slope
≈30m from ridge. 4 ice-screws for crux (although this was done on 2) and
stakes. Follow ridge to summit on left and descend via East Ridge route.


  • P1
  • Alpine (Mt Cook) 4-

Comments
Attribution
Alex Palaman
UUID
 
069e3ea9-2cf8-4db6-accb-0ba8eb64e0bf