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Dixon Pk

Type
Mountain
Altitude
3004m
Part of
Main Divide

Previously known as Mt Dixon. The actual Mt Dixon (1556m) is north of the Taramakau River, near Arthur's Pass.

Lat/lon
-43.56365353,170.1812771, NZ Topo Map
Accessed from
Grand Plateau
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Places

Type Name Alert
Face West Face

Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Alert Operations
4.62 4.62South Ridge, III,3+,3- III,3+,3- 0m
1.02

Gain the ridge either via a steep 150m slope from the Grand Plateau or via the névé between Syme Ridge and Mt Dixon. Then head up a rock buttress and follow the winding arête to the summit. An interesting traverse can be created by descending the South East Ridge (Route 4.66).

  • P1
  • Alpine (Commitment) III
  • Alpine (Technical) 3+
  • Alpine (Mt Cook) 3-
4.63 4.63The Cave variant, III,5 III,5 0m
0

Start up the snowfield approach to the South
Ridge, then head right, aiming for the major
corner/runnel breaching the rock band. Two
pitches of steepening ground lead to a cave.
Climb out and around the roof of the cave on
steep ice and mixed ground (two pitches) to
gain easier climbing to the snowfield, which is
followed to the crest of the South Ridge.

  • P1
  • Alpine (Commitment) III
  • Alpine (Technical) 5
4.64 4.64Original Route, III,3,3- III,3,3- 0m
0
  • P1
  • Alpine (Commitment) III
  • Alpine (Technical) 3
  • Alpine (Mt Cook) 3-

From the Grand Plateau turn the major icecliff on the left and head up. The route usually finishes high on the South Ridge. A somewhat dangerous climb.
4.65 4.65Direct, IV,4+ IV,4+ 0m
0

Takes the main gully through the central rock band, then through the icecliffs above. Finish directly to the summit. Somewhat dangerous.

  • P1
  • Alpine (Commitment) IV
  • Alpine (Technical) 4+
4.66 4.66South East Ridge, III,3,2+ III,3,2+ 0m
2.01
  • P1
  • Alpine (Commitment) III
  • Alpine (Technical) 3
  • Alpine (Mt Cook) 2+

This ridge is gained via either (i) the saddle to the north of Pt 2452m then along the narrow ridge, or (ii) up a steep gully to the right of the large icecliff at the bottom corner of the south-east face. Then follow up moderate snow slopes to the summit. This is a good descent route from Mt Dixon but takes longer than most parties anticipate.
4.66 (iii) 4.66 (iii)Give It 80, 4- 4- 0m
2.01

On right of South East Ridge route (1) . Follow rock-band with left traverses to a
near-vertical 55m ice & rock gully. This crux pitch is committing and
difficult to down-climb, so rest calves midway on rock jutting out on left.
Set belay high to give leader enough rope as it top-outs onto an icy slope
≈30m from ridge. 4 ice-screws for crux (although this was done on 2) and
stakes. Follow ridge to summit on left and descend via South East Ridge route.

  • P1
  • Alpine (Mt Cook) 4-
4.67 4.67East Face, III,2+,2+ III,2+,2+ 0m
0
  • P1
  • Alpine (Commitment) III
  • Alpine (Technical) 2+
  • Alpine (Mt Cook) 2+

From Pioneer Pass, climb up a snow gully onto the Haast-Dixon Ridge.
Comments
This place appears in
Aoraki Tai Poutini: a guide for mountaineers, 2018
Buy this guidebook
Attribution
Alex Palaman
UUID
 
069e3ea9-2cf8-4db6-accb-0ba8eb64e0bf