West Face

(6 routes)

The névé between Syme Ridge and Mt Dixon provides access to the face. The prominent routes are described, and there are a number of other variations, especially in gullies further left towards Mt Haast.

Face (Alpine)
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
Middle Class White Boys Get Away With Rape 4- 18
Ill-defined rock rib on left of face
Charlie Hobbs, Murray Ball, Dec 1986.
Left Buttress 4
Directly under the summit, ascend from a snow cone to gain a rock rib, which steepens in the middle before some interesting pitches on good rock below the summit.
Austin Brookes, Archie Simpson, Dec 1972.
Central Gully 3+
Ascend a snow couloir and ice gully to the right of the buttress and finish up rock to emerge right of the summit.
Merv English, Peter Hillary, Nov 1976.
Right Buttress 3+
Ascend easy-angled, sound rock and finish near the top of the south ridge
Jon Muir, Tom Scissons, Feb 1980.
White Spring 4+
South ridge/west face. 300m of mostly 60o ice with some steeper ground. A winter route.
John Fantini, Simon Parsons, Sep 1987.
No way out III 5+ 18
Begins at the base of a lobe of rock beneath the shoulder on the South Ridge. Start up a chimney (crux grade 18), head left onto the face, up an obvious grade 15 rock gully
Cam Grierson, Guy White Jan 1995

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