The névé between Syme Ridge and Mt Dixon provides access to the face. The prominent routes are described, and there are a number of other variations, especially in gullies further left towards Mt Haast.
Routes
Reference | Title | Grade | Length | Pro | Quality | Alert | Operations |
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Middle Class White Boys Get Away With Rape, 18,4- | 18,4- | 0m | |||||
Ill-defined rock rib on left of face |
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Left Buttress, 4 | 4 | 0m | |||||
Directly under the summit, ascend from a snow cone to gain a rock rib, which steepens in the middle before some interesting pitches on good rock below the summit. |
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Central Gully, 3+ | 3+ | 0m | |||||
Ascend a snow couloir and ice gully to the right of the buttress and finish up rock to emerge right of the summit. |
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Right Buttress, 3+ | 3+ | 0m | |||||
Ascend easy-angled, sound rock and finish near the top of the south ridge |
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White Spring, 4+ | 4+ | 0m | |||||
South ridge/west face. 300m of mostly 60o ice with some steeper ground. A winter route. |
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No way out, III,5+,18 | III,5+,18 | 0m | |||||
Begins at the base of a lobe of rock beneath the shoulder on the South Ridge. Start up a chimney (crux grade 18), head left onto the face, up an obvious grade 15 rock gully |