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West Face

Type
Part of

The névé between Syme Ridge and Mt Dixon provides access to the face. The prominent routes are described, and there are a number of other variations, especially in gullies further left towards Mt Haast.

Aspect
West
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Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Alert Operations
 Middle Class White Boys Get Away With Rape, 18,4- 18,4- 0m
0

  • P1
  • 18
  • Alpine (Mt Cook) 4-

Ill-defined rock rib on left of face


 Left Buttress, 4 4 0m
0

  • P1
  • Alpine (Mt Cook) 4

Directly under the summit, ascend from a snow cone to gain a rock rib, which steepens in the middle before some interesting pitches on good rock below the summit.


 Central Gully, 3+ 3+ 0m
1.02

  • P1
  • Alpine (Mt Cook) 3+

Ascend a snow couloir and ice gully to the right of the buttress and finish up rock to emerge right of the summit.


 Right Buttress, 3+ 3+ 0m
0

  • P1
  • Alpine (Mt Cook) 3+

Ascend easy-angled, sound rock and finish near the top of the south ridge


 White Spring, 4+ 4+ 0m
0

  • P1
  • Alpine (Mt Cook) 4+

South ridge/west face. 300m of mostly 60o ice with some steeper ground. A winter route.


 No way out, III,5+,18 III,5+,18 0m
0

  • P1
  • 18
  • Alpine (Technical) 5+
  • Alpine (Commitment) III

Begins at the base of a lobe of rock beneath the shoulder on the South Ridge. Start up a chimney (crux grade 18), head left onto the face, up an obvious grade 15 rock gully


Comments
UUID
 
23130823-662f-4c58-bfa2-55b4393a7254