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Mt Thomson

Type
Altitude
2642m
Part of

Named for the surveyor John Turnbull Thomson. Appears on older maps as 'Mt Thompson'.

Lat/lon
-43.706214,170.022919, NZ Topo Map
Topo50
BX15 601 564
Accessed from
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Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Alert Operations
 Original Route, 2+ 2+ 0m
0

  • P1
  • Alpine (Mt Cook) 2+

From the Frind Glacier, head up a gully onto a rock rib north of the Ngaroimata Falls gaining height to reach the Donne Glacier. Ascend left towards the col between Thompson and Eagle Peak, but well before the col head up a rock rib onto the South (Main Divide) Ridge.


 Left Rib, 3 3 0m
0

  • P1
  • Alpine (Mt Cook) 3

From the Donne Glacier head up the face on Thomson via a rib left of the prominent overhang on the face.


 Northern Exit, 3+ 3+ 0m
0

  • P1
  • Alpine (Mt Cook) 3+

From the Donne Glacier ascend the face and turn the overhang on its northern extremity


 West Ridge, III,2 III,2 0m
0

From Harper's Rock Biv, climb tussock and snow-grass to shingle until the ridge turns to a series of sharp gendarmes. These are passed on the glacier to the north, staying high seems to present few if any cracks. Intersecting slabs and snow-fields lead to the summit. Glacial recession may complicate the final climb in the future. The peak is also climbable from the saddle by Shark's Teeth through a series of ledges and shallow gullies, but this is more difficult and exposed.


  • P1
  • Alpine (Commitment) III
  • Alpine (Mt Cook) 2

Comments
Attribution
Alex Palman
UUID
 
1b5f1ed7-e5ae-4306-82d6-917bc6baaacf