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Mt Thomson

Type
Altitude
2642m
Part of
Image
Lat/lon
-43.706214,170.022919, NZ Topo Map
Topo50
BX15 601 564
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Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Alert Operations
2.53 2.53Original Route, IV,2+ IV,2+ 0m
0

Access the Donne Glacier from the Frind-Mueller confluence. From the true right edge of the lower Frind Glacier, head up a gully onto a rock rib north of the Ngaroimata Falls, gaining height and tending right to reach the frequently broken Donne.
Ascend left towards the col between Thomson and Eagle Peak, but well before the col head up a rock rib onto the south (Main Divide) ridge.
A large rockfall from the east face onto the Frind Glacier during 1996 may have affected this route.


  • P1
  • Alpine (Commitment) IV
  • Alpine (Technical) 2+

2.54 2.54Direct #2, V,3+ V,3+ 0m
0

Access the Donne Glacier from the Frind-Mueller confluence. From the true right edge of the lower Frind Glacier, head up a gully onto a rock rib north of the Ngaroimata Falls, gaining height and tending right to reach the frequently broken Donne.
Head up the face on Thomson via a rib left of the prominent overhang on the face.
A large rockfall from the east face onto the Frind Glacier during 1996 may have affected this route.


  • P1
  • Alpine (Commitment) V
  • Alpine (Technical) 3+

2.55 2.55Direct #1, V,4 V,4 0m
0

Access the Donne Glacier from the Frind-Mueller confluence. From the true right edge of the lower Frind Glacier, head up a gully onto a rock rib north of the Ngaroimata Falls, gaining height and tending right to reach the frequently broken Donne.
Ascend the face and turn the prominent overhang on its northern extremity.
A large rockfall from the east face onto the Frind Glacier during 1996 may have affected this route.


  • P1
  • Alpine (Commitment) V
  • Alpine (Technical) 4

 West Ridge, III,2 III,2 0m
0

From Harper's Rock Biv, climb tussock and snow-grass to shingle until the ridge turns to a series of sharp gendarmes. These are passed on the glacier to the north, staying high seems to present few if any cracks. Intersecting slabs and snow-fields lead to the summit. Glacial recession may complicate the final climb in the future. The peak is also climbable from the saddle by Shark's Teeth through a series of ledges and shallow gullies, but this is more difficult and exposed.


  • P1
  • Alpine (Commitment) III
  • Alpine (Mt Cook) 2

Comments
Attribution
ATP 2018 (Rob Frost)
UUID
 
1b5f1ed7-e5ae-4306-82d6-917bc6baaacf