Direct #1

Access the Donne Glacier from the Frind-Mueller confluence. From the true right edge of the lower Frind Glacier, head up a gully onto a rock rib north of the Ngaroimata Falls, gaining height and tending right to reach the frequently broken Donne.
Ascend the face and turn the prominent overhang on its northern extremity.
A large rockfall from the east face onto the Frind Glacier during 1996 may have affected this route.